9 military watches at attention!
This week: a show dedicated to military watches. Originally designed to meet the rigorous and demanding standards of the army, they gradually gained popularity among the general public thanks to their durability and practicality. They have even become true collector's items. Here are 9 reviewed by General Frank Sans C! Attention…
HAMILTON, Khaki Field Automatic 38 mm et 42 mm
In 1942, Hamilton, a watch brand founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, halted its production of civilian watches to supply the United States Armed Forces during World War II. Between 1942 and 1945, it manufactured over a million models and was awarded the “Army-Navy ‘E’ Award” for excellence in wartime production. Following the U.S. Navy military wristwatches, Grade II, and Canteen models, the Khaki Field debuted in 1966.
Decades later, it became one of the brand’s iconic models. Today, a regiment of nine automatic watches joins the ranks of this decidedly vintage line. Available in four 38mm models and five 42mm models, these timepieces stand out with their dial colors in green or blue (and black for a single 42mm model).
What truly sets them apart is their finish. At the center, a sunburst effect catches the light with every wrist movement, while an azuré finish on the hour ring adds contrast and depth. Legibility is enhanced by the highly practical 24-hour indication and the date window at 3 o’clock. Water-resistant up to 100 meters, these various models are powered by an automatic three-hand movement featuring a Nivachron™ balance spring and offering approximately 80 hours of power reserve. They are available with either a stainless steel bracelet or a brown leather strap with beige stitching.
Steel bracelet / Blue dial / 38 mm – €825
Brown leather strap / Green dial / 42 mm – €745
Technical Details:
Case: 42 mm / 38 mm stainless steel
Thickness: 11.0 mm / 11.5 mm
Lug Width: 22 mm / 20 mm
Dial: Black, khaki green, or dark blue with sunburst and azuré finish, dual time display, and date function at 3 o’clock
Hands: Hour and minute hands with Super-LumiNova®
Movement: Automatic 3-hand movement with 25 jewels, Nivachron™ balance, and 80-hour power reserve
Bracelet: Black or brown leather strap with pin buckle, or stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp
Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance: 10 bar (100 m)
IWC, Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun
I believed, I waited, and I was disappointed: Tom Cruise didn’t show up with his Ray-Bans in this episode. Instead, we’ll have to settle for a watch-obsessed enthusiast in full swing and an iconic IWC timepiece with a story worth telling.
Launched in 2007, the Top Gun Pilot’s Chronograph takes its name from the “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor Program,” a U.S. Navy training course that prepares and trains the best naval aviators. Confined in their cockpit and subjected to intense acceleration forces, these pilots need a watch that can withstand these extreme conditions. The choice of ceramic is due to the material’s hardness and resistance. As for the matte black color, it ensures that this elite group is not dazzled by the multiple sun reflections. The 44.5mm chronograph features an internal case made of soft iron, providing it with magnetic protection.
The black dial is punctuated with hands that resemble the shape of propeller blades – a nod to its pilot’s watch heritage – along with luminescent numbers and markers. At 3 o’clock, a window displays the day and date, while the chronograph counters at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock make it easy to read the information. Mechanically, this instrument, water-resistant to 60 meters, is powered by an automatic movement offering about 46 hours of power reserve, concealed by a titanium caseback engraved with the logo of the aviation school.
€9,900
Consult the technical specifications of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN.
G-SHOCK, GD-350
Thermometer, digital compass, vibrating and audible alarm, altimeter, world time, water resistance up to 200 meters: all these features, and many more, equip G-Shock watches. Highly appreciated by the military, they are known and recognized for their robustness, reliability in all circumstances, and resistance to extreme shocks.
The British Army, the Royal Air Force, and the Royal Navy—the main branches of the British military—trust them, just like the explosive ordnance disposal divers of the French Navy. In 2024, the watch brand won a tender to equip soldiers with an instrument that meets a highly demanding set of specifications. The GD-350 model was then selected to accompany them on their high-risk missions. Water-resistant up to 200 meters, this tool designed for combat swimmers features a timer that can be quickly activated by pressing a large, easily identifiable button. As the countdown nears its end, the wearer is alerted either by vibrations or by an audible signal accompanied by an LED flash.
These vibrations are felt thanks to a shock absorber on the back of the watch—an essential alert for our bomb disposal expert to “defuse” as quickly as possible!
On the technical side, this model features an imposing case—53.4 × 50.8 × 18 mm—made of resin, just like the strap. It is also equipped with a world time function, 1/100th of a second stopwatch, automatic calendar, 12/24-hour display, and more. In short, a true tool watch!
€129
Consult the technical specifications of the G-Shock GD-350.
PANERAI, Navy SEALs collection
Camouflage mode required for these Panerai watches from the Navy Seals collection, which honors the US Navy special forces—and not just any: the “AOR1” pattern. Unlike “AOR2,” which features green shades, “AOR1” showcases desert tones, sand-colored. This print—ironically quite eye-catching—appears on a bi-material strap made of rubber and textile.
This combat-ready look outfits the Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech™ (reference PAM01513), water-resistant up to 500 meters. With a 44 mm diameter, this iteration is crafted—true to its name—from Carbotech™, a composite material made of carbon fibers. 64% lighter than titanium and 80% lighter than steel, it stands out for its lightness, durability, and extreme resistance to wear and corrosion. Its irregular matte black finish makes each piece unique. Enhanced with a unidirectional rotating bezel made from the same alloy, the dial features a gradient surface transitioning from black to anthracite. It is contrasted by the GMT hand, which sports an orange-yellow arrow tip.
The PAM01518 version stands out with its satin-finished AISI 316L stainless steel case, a highly resistant steel family. Unlike its counterpart, it does not feature a second time zone but offers water resistance up to 300 meters. Similar to the Submersible Navy SEALs Titanio, it boasts an imposing 47 mm diameter, crafted from grade 5 titanium. Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel in Carbotech™, this chronograph includes a flyback function and a countdown timer. This system is operated via a push-button located at 4 o’clock.
Each watch features a cushion-shaped case, equipped with the characteristic lever-operated crown guard. Inside, it houses a dial adorned with the Navy SEALs logo in decal form at 6 o’clock, a small seconds hand inspired by a target, indexes covered with beige sand-colored Super-LumiNova®, and a case back engraved with the official emblem of these armed forces. The watches are also powered by an automatic movement, offering approximately 72 hours of power reserve.
PAM01513 – €20,100
PAM01518 – €10,400
PAM01669 – €13,900
LONGINES, Pilot Majetek
Following an order placed by the Czechoslovak Air Force, Longines unveiled the reference 3582. The watch was designed according to strict specifications, including a rotating bezel with a movable luminous marker. It is intended for the military flight personnel and is engraved with the inscription “Majetek Vojenské Správy,” which translates to “Property of the Czechoslovak Army” in French.
Several series, equipped with different calibers, were produced. Approximately 1,700 combatants were issued these watches during World War II, from 1939 to 1945. The cushion shape of the case was an innovation. The original design was, in fact, protected by the brand on April 1, 1935, with the International Bureau of Industrial Property in Bern.
Today, this distinctive design is reinterpreted and refined in the 43mm steel Pilot Majetek: a slightly curved case and rounded lugs. The ultimate pilot’s watch, it features a matte black dial that provides a striking contrast with the white Arabic numerals and luminescent stick hands. Water-resistant to 100 meters, this set, with undeniable readability, is highlighted by a railroad-style minute track and a small seconds at 6 o’clock.
Enhanced with a fluted bezel, the timepiece, paired with a brown leather strap, is powered by an automatic movement, certified as a chronometer by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). Housed in a solid screwed case back, it is also equipped with a silicon anti-magnetic balance spring and has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
€4,100
Consult the technical specifications of the Longines Pilot Majetek.
LE FORBAN, “Omaha”
One of the few watch brands to have equipped the French Navy and the PATMAR, commonly known as the maritime patrols, at the end of the 1960s. In recent years, the watchmaking house has reinvented itself and offers watches for the “pirates of the 21st century,” as it likes to specify.
With an undeniable vintage character, the models pay tribute to the great French or formerly French port cities: La Malouine, La Brestoise, and La Rochelaise. The Omaha version breaks this rule. Indeed, the watch is unveiled on the occasion of the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings on June 6, 1944. It highlights the courage of the American soldiers who landed on the beaches of Normandy, including Omaha Beach.
Inspired by 1940s chronographs, this limited edition of only 44 pieces, with a 39mm 316L steel case, features a unidirectional notched steel bezel with an aluminum ring. It enhances a sunburst khaki green dial, contrasted with golden subdials and indexes covered in luminescent material. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, this anniversary piece is equipped with a screwed-down pear-shaped crown for better grip. It is paired with a perforated aged brown leather strap, accentuating its retro appeal. Commemorative to the back, the case back is engraved with the iconic star of the U.S. Army.
€1,944
Consult the technical specifications of Le Forban Le Omaha watch.
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