Star Watch Episode 3 (First act) – The manufacture strikes back
Third programme immersed in the aisles of Watches and Wonders 2022 in Geneva. This time, Frank Sans C goes to discover the most beautiful novelties by TAG Heuer and IWC. Colourful creations…
Frank Sans C extends the pleasure of discovering novelties at the heart of Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva for a third programme full of surprises ! Indeed, it has been decided as the novelties are so numerous and interesting, to make an episode 3 – Second act that will be put online in 3 days, on Thursday May 12th… Difficult to make it short with CEOs who are all very interesting and who give often exclusive information …
TAG HEUER
Carrera x Porsche Limited Edition
Those who follow us diligently know that we have already dedicated a complete article and a video of Frank Sans C, in Lapland, on this small wonder of a chronograph.
All the information on this second collaborative work between TAG Heuer and Porsche by following this link :
Or by watching the Frank Sans C video here :
And, of course, for all the technical specifications, there is our technical datasheet on the new TAG Heuer Carrera x Porsche.
Carrera Plasma, at Watches and Wonders 2022, the future was already there!
Here, TAG Heuer is pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking by using « laboratory » synthetic diamonds to make its new TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph, the Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture is displaying its innovative and avant-garde spirit. Located in the design of a Carrera piece, the watch attracts attention with its dial made of polycristalline diamonds using CVD (chemical vapour deposition) technology, also known as « Avant-garde diamond ». Indeed, numerous crystals are put in successive layers that create a diamond affect with multiple reflections. The same process is used for the chronograph counters, but this time in black polycristalin diamonds giving a startling contrast with the whole.
Furthermore, this instrument has a 44 mm-diameter black sandblasted anodised aluminium case with a case middleinlaid with 48 laboratory diamonds. While the crown is made entirely of diamond and is made by Capsoul, a start-upexpert in the design of this precious material.
Certified chronometer by the very serious COSC, the instrument is powered by a calibre with amazing chronometric performance. It is equipped with a carbon balance spring machined using the same CVD technique as laboratory diamonds. This gives it great anti-magnetic abilities and resistance to shocks and temperatures. A real little concentrate of high technology.
Price : CHF 350,000
Technical specifications :
Movement
HEUER 02 Tourbillon Nanograph, COSC certified
Case
44 mm-diameter
Black sandblasted anodised aluminium set with 48 laboratory diamonds (4.2 ct in total)
Fixed tachymeter bezel in polished/satin-finished black ceramic
Domed sapphire crystal
Laboratory diamond crown (2.5 ct in total) at 3 o’clock
Sandblasted push-buttons and push-button protectors in steel pushers with black ADLC (Diamond-Like) coating
Black sandblasted case back in anodised aluminium with 4 black anodised titanium screws
Dial
With rhodium-plated brass base topped by a polycrystalline diamond plate (3.9 ct)
3 o’clock : minute counter, black polycrystalline diamond plate (0.25 ct) and brass ring with black opaline finish, polished rhodium-plated hand
9 o’clock : hour counter, black polycrystalline diamond plate (0,25 ct) and brass ring with black opaline finish, polished rhodium-plated hand
Strap
Grained black calf leather strap with black lining
Black sandblasted pin buckle in Grade 2 titanium with DLC coating
Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, the power of the sun at Watches and Wonders 2022
What a great example of perfectly mastered merging between watchmaking savoir-faire and technological innovation. This Aquaracer Solargraph (€2,800), as its name suggests, is powered by solar energy : first time in the TAG Heuer’s history. It should even be added that, it also uses artificial light to turn its hands. It is its dial that captures the energy : 20 hours in the sun and you are set for 6 months of battery life.
With a 40 mm-diameter, this black DLC treated steel watch is water-resistant to 200 m. It is a true diver’s watch with all the appropriate characteristics : luminescent hands and hour markers, screw-down crown and caseback, rubber strap with folding clasp equipped with an extension system…
…And the unidirectinal rotating bezel ? It is made of carbon injected with green SuperLuminova, a mixture that never makes the same effect from one piece to another, making each watch unique.
Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver, for the super-professionnals divers
This « Superdiver » edition does not lie, it is indeed a diving watch made for deep-sea diving. Indeed, its case guarantees a water-resistance to 1,000 m ! It is not the record but beyong 500 m, the watchmaking intruments able to resist such a pressure (100 kg per cm2 or 100 bars).
Machined in grade 5 titanium, the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver has an impressive 45 mm-diameter and a helium escape valve on the case middle at 9 o’clock.
A helium valve for « saturation » diving
The valve is thus intended for diving called « saturation » : a practice reserved for professionals used to the most extreme depths. This highly specialised field requires special training. Before being able to move between 200 and 500 m below the surface, divers must spend several days in chambers where they breathe helium to get used to the pressure.
It is during the decompression stages that this gas will create a pressure inside the watch. This is obviously, potentially dangerous for both the movement and the case as there is a risk of implosion. Hence the need for a helium valve.
A true professional tool-watch
Certified ISO 6425 diving watch and « saturation » diving watch, this intrument benefits from a prominent bridge-shaped crown protection and has, of course, a 60 minute graduated unidirectionnal rotating bezel for dive time calculations. This one is in two-tone ceramic with the first 15 minutes visible in orange. All its graduation is luminescent and emits a blue light in the dark, as does the second hand. This is not the case for the other hands and hour markers, that are covered with green luminescent material. For information, whatever the colour, it is Superluminova X1, the most powerful on the market.
Mechanically, the watch protects the exclusive new TH30-00 automatic calibre, certified chronometer (COSC) and made by Kenissi Manufacture SA according to TAG Heuer’s precise specifications. Priced at €6,300, it comes in a customised protective case that is as resistant as the watch and equipped with a diving safety light. What else.
Monaco Gulf Special Edition, so beautiful !
The emblematic Monaco chronograph, that became a legend on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the film Le Mans (1971) is back in the limelight in a new version created with Gulf, long time TAG Heuer’s collaborator. For the record, it was during the shooting of this epic film that were forged bonds between Gulf, TAG Heuer and Porsche.
Today, this Monaco Gulf Special Edition in steel, 39 mm-diameter (€6,700), features the emblematic sky blue and orange colours and the Gulf logo on its three-counter dial. Thirty minutes and twelve hours of chrono, respectively at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, small second and date window at 6 o’clock : the position of the different elements indicates the presence of the Heuer 02 automatic movement at the heart of the intrument. This ultramodern calibre, that guarantees 80 hours of power reserve, is indeed visible on the back of the water-resistant case to 100 m.
IWC Schaffhausen
A Pantone colour palette
On the occasion of Watches and Wonders 2022 salon that took place in Geneva a few weeks ago, IWC was pleased to present several novelties to Frank Sans C including four pieces from the Top Gun collection : the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 TOP GUN, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium®, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Lake Tahoe » and the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Woodland ». Presentation.
The Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Top Gun, the Pilots’ watch
First time in IWC’s Top Gun collection, the 43 mm-diameter of this Big Pilot’s Watch with its case made in black zirconium oxide ceramic is a must. An intense colour that, for the record, was created by the manufacture in close collaboration with the famous Pantone colour chart. From now on, this ceramic colour will be known as « IWC Jet Black ». This is a nod to the aviation world, from which the line is strongly inspired. Moreover, this edition has a calibre equipped with the Pellaton self-winding system that ensures a comfortable power reserve of approximatively 60 hours. The movement is protected by an inner case made of soft iron that guarantees protection against magnetic fields while the saphhire crystal is treated to resist depressurisation.
Price : €11,300
Technical specifications :
Mechanical movement – IWC manufacture calibre 82100
Power reserve : 60 hours
Self-winding system Pellaton
Seconds in the centre with stop device
Screw-down crown
Depressurisation-resistant crystal
Internal case in soft iron to protect against magnetic fields
Ceramic case
Titanium crown
Titanium case back
Black dial
Green or black textile strap with folding clasp
Sapphire crystal, domed, anti reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 10 bars / 100 m
Diameter : 43.8 mm
Thickness : 13.9 mm
Pilot’s watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Lake Tahoe »: a beautiful instrument in black and white at Watches and Wonders 2022
In his video on military watches, Frank sans C presented us the sand-coloured ceramic Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Mojave Desert » of which the pronounciation was the subject of desagreement among the editorial board ! This being said, IWC enriches today its collection of new ceramic colours with this white edition. With its suggestive name, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Lake Tahoe » is inspired by the snow-capped mountains surrounding this fabulous lake located in the United States. New for the maison, this luminous colour was the object of a true challenge for the manufacture : adapt it to the other elements of the watch machined in different materials. Challenged accepted for this 44.5 mm variation whose black dial contrasts with the rest of the watch.
Price : €11,600
Technical specifications :
Mechanical chronograph movement
IWC manufacture calibre 69380
Power reserve : 46 hours
Self-winding
Date and day display
Chronograph function hours, minutes and seconds
Small second with stop device
Internal case in soft iron ensuring protection against magnetic fields screw-down crown
Depressurisation-resistant crystal
Limited annual production of 1,000 pieces
Ceramic case
Titanium case back
Stainless steel crown and push-buttons
Black dial
White rubber strap with textile insert and folding clasp
Sapphire crystal, domed, anti reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 6 bars / 60 m
Diameter : 44.5 mm
Thickness : 15.7 mm
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition « Woodland », goes green
Another suggestive name, this « Woodland » chronograph has a dark green colour or should we say forest green to stay in the topic. The ceramic dial has numerals, hands and hour markers printed in a lighter colour. The watch has three different counters corresponding to the hours, minutes and seconds and a date and day window at 3 o’clock. Very harmonious, the watch is delivered on a green rubber strap with a textile insert.
Price : €11,600
Technical specifications :
Mechanical chronograph movement
IWC manufacture calibre 69380
Power reserve : 46 hours
Self-winding
Ceramic case
Ceratanium® case back, crown and push-buttons
Green dial
Green rubber strap with textile insert and pin buckle
Sapphire crystal, domed, anti reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 6 bars / 60 m
Diameter : 44.5 mm
Thickness : 15.7 mm
The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium®, the total black look
A small engineering wonder, the case of the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is made of Ceratanium®. Revealed in 2019 by the IWC maison, this innovative material, as the name suggests, is an alloy of titanium and ceramic. It has remarkable characteristics such as lightness, robustness and scratch resistance. Like the previous piece, Pantone has called– not surprisingly – this black colour : « IWC Ceratanium® ». Discreetly metallic, this deep colour is the result of an exclusive manufacturing technique that appears when the case components are fired at very high temperatures. This chronograph is combined with a black rubber strap with a textile insert that gives it a sporty look.
Price : €13,800
Technical specifications :
Mechanical movement
Chronograph function hours, minutes and seconds
IWC manufacture calibre 69385
Power reserve : 36 hours
Date and day display
Small second with stop device
Screw-down crown
Depressurisation-resistant crystal
Transparent sapphire crystal case back
Ceratanium® case, push-buttons and crown
Black dial
Black rubber strap with textile insert and Ceratanium® pin buckle
Domed, sapphire crystal, anti reflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant to 10 bars / 100 m
Diameter : 41.1 mm
Thickness : 14.5 mm
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