Watches and Wonders 2023: EPISODE #3
Good things always come in threes (soon fours)! Here is the third show dedicated to Watches and Wonders, 2023 edition. On today’s schedule, interviews with designer of Tudor Ander Ugarte, CEO of Montblanc Nicolas Baretzki, Europe CEO of Frederique Constant Yohan Bizy and President of Péquignet Hugues Souparis. Novelty on top of novelty...
TUDOR
Black Bay: bracelets play
During the Watches and Wonders 2023 exhibition, Tudor revealed an iconic trio.
The three variations, inspired by a 2012 model with a burgundy bezel, all have their own distinctive bracelet. The three-link and oval five-link bracelet variations and the rubber strap variation were very carefully crafted by the Maison. The three-link version has an entirely satin finish, whereas the five-link version alternates between polished and satin finishes.
Both these versions, which display a neo-vintage look, are equipped with the exclusive, ingenious Tudor “T-fit” clasp for a quick adjustment around the wrist. This sporty model is delivered with a black rubber strap available in three sizes and decorated inside with the emblematic “Snowflake” pattern. The latter makes this model both comfortable to wear and prevents any perspiration.
An emblematic design
These Black Bay watches, which come from Tudor’s iconic collection, all come with a 41-mm diameter case. Despite their urban look, the fact that most of their features are that of diving watches (except saturation diving: see our previous article on “All you need to know about water-resistance of the dive watches”) cannot be overlooked. The unidirectional bezel, the hands and indices coated in luminescent material for maximum visibility in the dark and the 200-metre water resistance are all there. To contrast with the rest of the design, the dial is wearing intense black with a slightly sun-brushed finish.
A gorgeous mechanism
Besides their complete design, the Black Bay watches were also certified both by the COSC and METAS, which is a token of their performance and quality (see our previous article “Maximum accuracy with the Breitling, Tudor and Akrone chronometers”). The chronometers are powered by a self-winding manufacture calibre with a 28,000 V/h frequency, an anti-magnetic balance spring in silicon and a comfortable 70-hour power reserve.
Three-link steel bracelet – €4,300
Five-link steel bracelet – €4,400
Black Bay 54
The Black Bay line is one of the core novelties of the Maison, with the introduction of the Black Bay 54 watch. Why 54? Well, this edition is heavily inspired by the Oyster Prince Submariner watch (ref. 7922) of 1954, one of the first diving watches used by the French and American Marine forces, then by professional divers. This steel watch is powered by a precise, high-performing manufacture calibre that is also COSC-certified. In reference to its ancestor, the new piece has kept the same design for the second hand, with the small round spot coated in luminescent material. It matches perfectly with the “Snowflake” hands, first introduced in 1969, which then became one of Tudor’s signature designs.
This timepiece is delivered with either a three-link steel bracelet or a black rubber strap and displays a black dial, which calls back to the unidirectional bezel with aluminium insert. This 37-mm-diameter piece is the epitome of genderless diving watches.
Three-link steel bracelet – €3780
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT
Classic Tourbillon Manufacture
This young watchmaking Maison, which celebrates its 35th anniversary this year, specially revealed a new complication watch with an elegant and timeless design for the occasion. The Classic Tourbillon Manufacture tells time with an open heart with – you can tell from its name – a visible tourbillon placed at 6 o’clock on an anthracite grey, slightly sun-brushed dial.
This precious 39-mm, rose gold timepiece is powered by the tourbillon manufacture movement introduced in 2008. It is visible through a transparent caseback and displays impressive finishes: bevelling, beading, circular graining, straight-grained flanks and mirror polishing. With a 38-hour power reserve, it is also equipped with a balance spring in silicon, magnetic resistance and a gold oscillating weight in openwork. The watch is delivered with a dark brown, alligator leather strap and produced in a limited edition of only 150 pieces.
Price: €25,995
Technical details:
18K rose gold, polished case, 39-mm
Domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Transparent caseback
30-m water resistance
Anthracite grey, sun-brushed dial
Applied indices with diamond cut edges
Rose gold-plated, hand-polished hour and minute hands
Heart Beat opening at 6 o’clock with a 60-second tourbillon
Rose gold-plated second hand
Functions: hours, minutes, 60-second tourbillon
Automatic movement with a manufacture calibre FC-980
Silicon escapement wheel and anchor
38-hour power reserve
Dark brown, alligator leather strap with a matte finish.
Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture
For this year of celebration at the manufacture, Frederique Constant delivers its own interpretation of universal time with the new Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture.
This 41-mm watch, with a variation in rose gold and one in steel, is perfect for globetrotters. Not only does it tell the local time, but it also indicates the time in the 24 other time zones in the world. The dial, either brown or petrol blue, displays the contours of the Earth with the latitude parallels and longitude meridians. This travel-inducing watch is equipped with a first disc indicating the 24 reference cities of the 24 different time zones, and a second disc indicating the time in each city. Its GMT function goes one step further with a display of daytime (white/light brown) and nighttime (blue/dark brown). A very intuitive design.
In steel – €4,295
In rose gold – €25,995 – Limited edition of 35 pieces
Technical details:
Steel/rose gold case, 41-mm
Domed sapphire crystal
Transparent caseback
100-m water resistance
Matte brown/blue, sun-brushed dial with a globe pattern embossed in the centre
Silver/rose gold-plated applied indices coated with white luminescent material
24-hour disc with daytime (light brown/ white) / nighttime (dark brown/blue) indication
Brown/blue disc with a display of 24 cities
Silver/rose gold-plated hour and minute hands, hand-polished with white luminescent material
Date counter at 6 o’clock with a silver/rose gold-plated hand, hand-polished
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date indication with a hand, worldtimer
Brown/blue alligator leather strap with a nubuck finish
Additional straps in brown/blue rubber
Automatic movement
Beading and “Côtes de Genève” circular graining
38-hour power reserve.
MONTBLANC
1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition
This gorgeous 44-mm chronometer, produced in 290 pieces, marries style, precision and advanced technology.
This watch, with an elegant and sophisticated design, is a true masterpiece to any collectioner of unique watches’s and lover of one-of-a-kind dials’s taste. The titanium case is completely devoid of oxygen to prevent oxidation and eliminate fogging, should strong variations in temperature occur.
The Montblanc Manufacture Chronograph is equipped with the universal time complication and two 3D turning globes: the Northern Hemisphere placed at 12 o’clock and the Southern Hemisphere placed at 6 o’clock. Both hemispheres feature orange reference meridians, and 14 dots mark the 8,000-m peaks. Two discs peripheral to each globe also display day & night indicators.
The timepiece is also equipped with a fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel with cardinal points to transform the watch into a compass. On the case back, 3D coloured laser engraving displays the names and altitudes of the 14 peaks above 8,000 metres.
€9,300
1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000
The 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000, a 42-mm titanium chronograph, also pays tribute to Reinhold Messner, one of the greatest mountaineers of our time.
The piece is equipped with the traveller worldtime complication and displays a dark grey Sfumato glacier patterned dial, as well as two turning globes representing the Northern and Southern hemispheres. It also comes with a 24-hour scale, day/night indications, a dual display of the time and a date placed at 3 o’clock. The cardinal points on the fluted bi-directional black ceramic bezel are the ultimate reference to the world of exploration. When you flip the watch, the beauty of the caseback will also grab your attention.
There, the second tallest peak in the world was laser engraved in relief and in colour: K2, which is extremely difficult and dangerous to climb. “Peak” realism, specially made for those who dare to adventure.
€7,100
Click here to read the 1858 Montblanc Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 full technical sheet.
1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date
The 41-mm, steel diving watch 1858 Iced Sea Automatic meets the strict requirements of the ISO 6425 norm: unidirectional bezel, screwed-in crown and caseback, hands and indices coated in luminescent material for maximum visibility under all circumstances and water resistance up to 300 metres. This impressive piece shows off a distinctive grey dial, which gives it a frozen texture. The patterns, which are reminiscent of the lines, wave ogives and reflections of light on the surface of a glacier, result from an exclusive ancient technique called “gratté-boisé”. This gave the drawing both depth and lighting.
As for the caseback, it displays 3D engraving of a diver and an iceberg which cohabit in striking contrast. The model is delivered with an interchangeable steel strap, and houses an automatic calibre with a 28,000 V/h (4 Hz) frequency and a 38-hour power reserve.
€3,180
Click here to read the Montblanc 1858 Iced Sea Automatic Date full technical sheet.
PÉQUIGNET
Concorde
This year, the manufacture – created in 1973, named after its creator Émile Péquignet and established in Morteau in the French Jura – celebrates its 50 years of watchmaking savoir-faire.
To celebrate this important event, the Maison released a new collection named “Concorde”, revealed during Watches and Wonders 2023. The watch was named directly after the design chosen for the bracelet: a Concorde mesh bracelet in reference to the shape of the majestic obelisk on the Place de la Concorde in Paris. Made of steel, it also has a distinctive cushion-shaped case of either 40 or 36 mm. The pieces are available in six different colours for the dial – gold, silver, green, navy blue, anthracite grey and pink (only for the 36 mm version) – and house the Initial™ calibre, designed and assembled in-house in France. The calibre is visible through the transparent caseback and equipped with an oscillating weight in openwork, with snailing decoration and an embossed “Fleur-de-Lys” logo.
40-mm version – €4,000
36-mm version – €3,800
Technical details:
316L polish, satin finish stainless steel case, 40 mm
Crown with embossed “Fleur-de-Lys” logo
2N yellow gold dial
4N yellow gold-plated hour, minute, second hands
Large date display at 3 o’clock
Initial™ calibre
Dual direction winding
Frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 V/h)
65-hour power reserve
Stop second
Oscillating weight in openwork with snailing decoration and an embossed “Fleur-de-Lys” logo
100-m water resistance
Caseback secured by 6 screws with sapphire opening on the movement
Polished and satin finish steel bracelet/folding clasp.
Royale Saphir Night Black
Péquignet is now broadening its Royale Saphir collection, created in 2019, with the new line of “Ombres et Lumières” watches.
Here, the subtle art of transparency has been mastered, for the dial of this watch gives a glimpse of the Royal calibre and the various complications which led to eight patents being registered. Just like its name, this Saphir Night Black version of the timepiece displays a moon phase (at 6 o’clock), an 88-hour power reserve (between 7 and 8 o’clock) and an instantaneous dual day/date aperture (at 12 o’clock). A small watchmaking feat with a 42-mm diameter, crafted in black, PVD processed steel. This 50-metre water resistant watch also comes in four other variations: Dawn White, Eclipse White, Shade Grey and Black Parhelion.
€10,800
Available in June 2023
Technical details:
PVD-processed, satin finish steel case, 42-mm diameter
Crown with embossed “Fleur-de-Lys” logo
Black, sapphire dial
Date and moon discs visible through the black, sapphire dial
Large date display with a dual aperture
Black moon phase
Royal Calibre
Frequency of 21,600 V/h
38-hour power reserve
Sunray, rhodium-plated lys 3N oscillating weight
Large balance wheel with compensating screws
50-m water resistance
Caseback secured by 6 screws with sapphire opening on the movement
Black, alligator leather bracelet/folding clasp in PVD-processed, satin-finish steel
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