Daniel Roth Tourbillon: The Triumphant Return of an Icon
With the Tourbillon Souscription, Daniel Roth marked his grand return to the art of horological complications. Today, the Maison, revived by the master watchmakers of La Fabrique du Temps, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, persists and solidifies its reputation with the Tourbillon Rose Gold model. Description.
The Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold – a Signature Case and a New Dial
This remarkable edition follows the Tourbillon Souscription model in yellow gold, unveiled at the LVMH Watch Week 2024 in Miami (see Frank Sans C’s episode: « Deux journalistes à Miami » and read the article: “LVMH WATCH WEEK: two journalists head to Miami“) and winner of the Tourbillon Prize at the latest GPHG (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève).
These two editions pay homage to the original 1988 piece created by Daniel Roth. However, they affirm their modernity with a refined design and stylized lugs. Made at the heart of La Fabrique du Temps, founded by master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, who had the bold and brilliant idea of reviving the brand, they demonstrate expertise in technical and complex complications combined with the Maison’s aesthetic mastery.
“Through their complementarity, the rose gold case and dial also illustrate the distinctive elegance of Daniel Roth’s signature aesthetic codes.”
Matthieu Hegi, Artistic Director of Horology at Daniel Roth.
Inherent to the Maison, the double-ellipse case is crafted in 18-carat 5N rose gold, giving it a vintage look. A perfect symbiosis between round and square, this emblematic shape features a rose gold dial, contrasted by markings printed in glossy black lacquer and hands in steel coated with an intense black. Designed in close collaboration with Kari Voutilainen’s renowned guilloché workshop, the dial also stands out for its vertical guilloché, entirely hand-crafted.
This true craftsmanship requires such precision and dexterity that almost no errors are permitted. The minute markers and applied scales are made of solid silver. The seconds gradation, divided into three distinct zones, takes on the shape of a fan. It is pointed to by seconds hands of different lengths that overlap, a layout requiring precise adjustment of the tourbillon cage to avoid imbalance issues.
A High-Flying Tourbillon
A sublime tourbillon appears at 6 o’clock, offering a hypnotic spectacle. Driven by a manual winding movement, it is housed in a hand-polished steel cage with a mirror finish. The screws securing the cage also feature a mirror finish, while the tourbillon’s escape wheel is mounted on a slightly curved bridge in black-polished steel.
Strikingly beautiful, both front and back, the in-house caliber, with approximately 80 hours of power reserve, reveals its intricate workings through a sapphire case back (notably hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription version). The bridges are decorated with vertical Geneva stripes, reflecting the dial’s guilloché.
Only about fifty pieces will be produced annually. However, early collectors can rest assured that 2025 may hold a few surprises…
155,000 CHF (excl. tax)
Technical details:
Movement
Caliber DR001: manual winding mechanical movement, developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
1-minute tourbillon
Thickness: 4,6 mm
206 components
80 hours of power reserve
21,600 vibrations per hour – 3 Hz
19 jewels
Flat spring tourbillon
Case
18-carat 5N rose gold
Dimensions: 38,6 x 35,5 mm
Thickness: 9,2 mm
Flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Water resistance: 30 m
Lug width: 20 mm
Sapphire case back
Dial
18-carat 5N rose gold with linear guilloché
Engravings: DANIEL ROTH and unique watch number
Strap
Brown calf leather
Buckle
18-carat 5N rose gold tang buckle
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