Next stop

A horological masterpiece by Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen

As part of its partnership with independent creators and following a first series crafted with Rexhep Rexhepi in 2023, the trunk-maker now makes a stop with the Finnish master watchmaker. Explanation.

By Arthur Frydman

Jean Arnault, who took over Louis Vuitton watches in 2021, announced one of his flagship initiatives at the end of 2022: the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize. This competition is aimed at those aspiring to greater achievements, particularly in creativity and entrepreneurship within the field of independent watchmaking. Candidates can be watchmakers, designers, entrepreneurs, recent graduates, and creatives from around the world. The winner—Raúl Pagès being the first, named in early 2024—receives a grant and a year-long mentorship by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, tailored to support their creative endeavor.

One year later, in 2023, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division unveiled a second major project: the creation of (very) limited series of timepieces in collaboration with independent watchmakers. To inaugurate this groundbreaking partnership, the maison introduced the LVRR-01, an astonishing double-faced striking chronograph, produced in just ten pieces by young watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi. A first in the brand’s history, this was the first time the Louis Vuitton logo appeared alongside that of another watchmaker. On the sapphire crystal dial, the “LV” initials subtly merged with “Akrivia,” symbolizing the meeting of two maisons for an exclusive journey through time.

Master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen

Two years after embarking on this new horological adventure, Louis Vuitton, under the leadership of its watchmaking director Jean Arnault, has just announced the second chapter of its exclusive collaboration with renowned independent watchmakers. This time, the brand has enlisted Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, who, interestingly, began his career in Saint-Sulpice, Switzerland, in 2002—the same year Louis Vuitton introduced its first Tambour watch. A member of the expert committee for the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, Kari Voutilainen is well known among enthusiasts and connoisseurs of fine horology for his intricate timepieces with exquisite finishes, blending traditional watchmaking with signature complications. Together, Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen are redefining artisanal watchmaking with the LVKV-02 GMR 6, an exceptional timepiece entirely handcrafted and limited to only five pieces.

Born from a partnership with master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, the spectacular LVKV-02 GMR 6 is inspired by the world of travel

The art of travel

Since its creation in 1854, Louis Vuitton has played a key role in shaping the art of travel for modern globetrotters. The maison has preserved this poetic vision of travel, reinventing the codes of the travel watch for 21st-century nomads. This vision led to the birth of the Escale watch line in 2014—a collection designed for modern adventurers with complications dedicated to travel. In 2024, for its tenth anniversary, Escale embarked on a new journey into traditional watchmaking with a fresh identity: a unisex three-hand watch, both refined and sophisticated. These Escale 2.0 models incorporate the emblematic design elements of the iconic Courrier trunks first introduced in 1858. The lugs are reminiscent of the riveted brass corners and brackets of Louis Vuitton trunks, while the octagonal crown, engraved with the Monogram and topped with a dome, echoes the shape of the signature rivets.

The dial: a remarkable fusion of both maisons’ expertise

Equipped with a GMT function (designed for frequent travelers), the LVKV-02 GMR 6 naturally takes inspiration from the design of the Escale unveiled last year. It is housed in a 40.5mm case (with a thickness of 12.54mm) crafted from satin-finished tantalum, an extremely hard, heavy, dark, shiny, and ductile metal that is particularly difficult to work with for watchmakers. This complexity earned it the name Tantalum, given in 1802 by Swedish chemist Anders Ekelberg. The name was chosen in reference to Greek mythology, specifically to the torment of Zeus’ son, Tantalus, who had offended the gods. Tantalus was condemned to suffer a punishment where he could neither eat nor drink: the branches of the trees would part whenever he tried to grasp a fruit, and the water would recede every time he attempted to quench his thirst. Today, that torment has been replaced by the pleasure of owning an extraordinary timepiece… That said, let’s return to the watch, whose bezel, lugs, the sapphire case back engraved with “Louis cruises with Kari,” and the octagonal crown are all crafted from platinum.

The case back features the engraved inscription “Louis cruises with Kari,” emphasizing the uniqueness of the piece.

Regarding the dial, its perimeter is adorned with a dark gray brushed circular ring featuring dotted minute markers. The classic aesthetic of the Escale collection is then seen with a polished diamond-cut hour ring, embellished with miniature paintings created by Maryna Bossy, an artisan from La Fabrique des Arts, Louis Vuitton’s artisan workshop.

The hour ring, polished and diamond-cut, is a masterpiece of miniature painting, hand-decorated by Maryna Bossy, a talented artisan from La Fabrique des Arts

The diamond-shaped pattern is created with 28 different colors, each applied separately by hand. It alone requires 32 hours of painting and 8 hours of firing. This design was created in a style reminiscent of ancient stained-glass windows, with Roman numerals in white gold applied on top, in the style of Kari Voutilainen.

The dial involves the use of 28 different colors and requires 32 hours of meticulous painting, followed by a total of eight hours of firing.

As for the solid gold base of the dial, it has been hand-guilloché by Voutilainen’s workshop and adorned with a scale pattern. This same workshop also crafted the Sun and Moon disc, which serves as a day/night indicator on the sub-dial for the second time zone at 6 o’clock.

The sub-dial for the second time zone is adorned with a depiction of the Moon and Sun, crafted by the Voutilainen Workshop.

This counter was first hand-engraved and then enamelled with a gradient effect. On this piece, which also includes a sub-dial for the small seconds, the most observant will notice the hidden shapes of the iconic Monogram flower beloved by Louis Vuitton. Finally, at 12 o’clock, there’s a retrograde power reserve indicator, which, along with the blued steel and white gold hands, completes the ensemble featuring a new logo specifically designed for the occasion, combining the classic Louis Vuitton logo with the name Voutilainen.

Finally, a word about the engine that powers the LVKV-02 GMR 6. Inside this new horological marvel beats a manually wound GMT movement developed by Kari Voutilainen, featuring two direct impulse escapement wheels. The “R” in the GMR-6 refers to the power reserve indicator, while the “6” indicates the position of the second time zone counter.

The artisans dedicated approximately 16 hours to coloring the ratchet using 27 different shades

Composed of 254 components, this caliber is made of maillechort for the plate and bridges, as well as solid gold for the wheels. It is produced in-house at the Voutilainen workshop and offers a 65-hour power reserve. As for the finishing touches? “LV” and Kari Voutilainen don’t spare any effort in this area. The plate features Côtes de Genève and perlage, large hand-polished bevels, and a polished and rounded black balance bridge.

The movement is decorated with traditional finishes, such as perlage and Côtes de Genève

In other words, everything you would expect from a high-level movement. But Louis Vuitton adds its personal touch to the caliber with the mainspring cover in white gold, adorned with a multicolored miniature painting created at La Fabrique des Arts, featuring 27 different paint colors and five kiln firings.

Each movement is a unique work of art, adorned with a kaleidoscopic pattern of multicolored miniature painting on the barrel, visible through the transparent caseback.

A true horological jewel, for which one will have to pay no less than 550,000 euros. Passion has no price, right?

Limited edition of 5 pieces – €550,000.

Consult the technical specifications of the LVKV-02 GMR 6.

THE LOUIS VUITTON WEBSITE

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