Haute Horlogerie Watches with a Steely Spirit
New steel watches make their way into horological collections every year, and the new 222 from the Vacheron Constantin manufacture is a true marvel. Celebrated for their unmistakable sporty-chic allure, they sometimes, and rightfully so, become iconic creations within their respective maisons. As such, three episodes are planned to cover these steel watches that are riding high in popularity. A polished review down to every last detail...
VACHERON CONSTANTIN, Historiques 222
2025 is a significant year for Vacheron Constantin, as it celebrates 270 years of uninterrupted watchmaking history. On this occasion, the manufacture highlights the Historiques 222 collection, launched in 1977 for the 222nd anniversary of the brand, with a steel model, nicknamed “Jumbo” by early collectors. Positioned at 5 o’clock, a yellow gold Maltese cross marks this 37 mm diameter piece. Water-resistant up to 50 meters, the case features a fluted bezel, with vertical satin finishing and polishing that accentuate striking light effects. The integrated steel bracelet has also undergone numerous improvements, especially in the area of its links.
They now close with a triple-blade clasp to conceal the visible pins and enhance wearing comfort. Decidedly sporty-chic, the timepiece features a blue dial adorned with a date window at 3 o’clock, hands, and indexes coated with Super-LumiNova® in a “lime green” luminescence, reminiscent of the tritium used in the original model.
On the mechanical side, an in-house automatic caliber, certified with the Poinçon de Genève, operates at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour). This ensures greater precision and provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. Visible through a sapphire case back, the movement also features a yellow gold oscillating weight adorned with a fluted pattern (echoing the bezel) and engraved with the original “222” logo. “This introduction will be followed by the launch of new models throughout our anniversary celebration,” notes Alexandra Vogler, CMO of Vacheron Constantin.
€35,000
Consult the technical specifications of the Historiques 222 watch by Vacheron Constantin.
THE VACHERON CONSTANTIN WEBSITE
CHOPARD, Alpine Eagle 41
Co-president of Chopard, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele reimagined the St. Moritz watch in 2019 — a model he originally designed in 1980 —creating the Alpine Eagle. Today, this style icon serves as a creative playground for the manufacture, which gives it various interpretations, including this 41 mm reference. Resolutely sporty, it features a case with an integrated bracelet, crafted from Lucent Steel A223. Developed over four years of research and development, this exclusive alloy is 50% more resistant to abrasion than traditional steel and is composed of 80% recycled material.
Water-resistant to 100 meters, the piece stands out with a gray brass dial, its surface embossed with a radiant relief pattern reminiscent of an eagle’s iris. The references to the majestic bird don’t stop there: the luminescent hands are inspired by the eagle’s wings. Visible through a sapphire case back, an in-house automatic caliber, chronometer-certified by the COSC, provides approximately 60 hours of power reserve.
It should be noted that Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is also the founding member of the Eagle Wings Foundation. With the initial project of reintroducing the golden eagle into its natural habitat, the organization is more broadly committed to protecting the Alpine environment and the wildlife that resides there.
€14,800
Consult the technical specifications of the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41.
AUDEMARS PIGUET, Royal Oak Automatique
In 2022, this horological icon designed by Gérald Genta celebrated its 50th anniversary. Today, the collection continues to evolve and includes this highly coveted 37 mm stainless steel reference. It boasts a more ergonomic design, showcased by the new shape of the bracelet’s first links. These links integrate seamlessly with the case and feature a trapezoidal shape — rather than parallel — that enhances the bracelet’s taper and increases wearing comfort. Featuring the signature octagonal bezel secured with eight screws, the case houses a gray dial adorned with the “Grande Tapisserie” pattern. The subtle grid of small squares includes a circular motif, visible to the discerning eye.
It features white gold hands and applied indices coated with luminescent material, a discreet date window at 3 o’clock, and the signature logo in 24-carat gold, achieved through galvanic growth. Mechanically, it rivals the aesthetics of the dial, seamlessly completing the ensemble. Water-resistant to 50 meters, the watch is powered by an in-house automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
€27,300
Consult the technical details of the Royal Oak Automatic.
THE AUDERMARS PIGUET WATCH WEBSITE
PATEK PHILIPPE, Cubitus
This new collection by Patek Philippe has been making waves since its launch at the end of 2024. Praised or criticized, it remains a timepiece with a distinctive character, currently available in three models.
Like this steel version, the piece stands out with its 45 mm diameter case with rounded corners, featuring a two-piece construction — case back and bezel — that is particularly remarkable. It houses an olive green sunburst dial, stamped with a horizontal relief pattern reminiscent of the iconic Nautilus motif.
The gray gold hands and the luminescent “baton” style applied indices, accompanied by a date at 3 o’clock, ensure optimal readability of the information. With its distinctly sporty appearance, the timepiece is powered by a self-winding in-house movement, featuring a stop-seconds mechanism and offering approximately 45 hours of power reserve.
Visible through a sapphire caseback, the movement reveals its remarkable decorations and a 21-carat gold oscillating mass, adorned with a horizontal engraved pattern, echoing the horizontal relief of the dial.
€40,900
Consult the technical specifications of the Patek Philippe Cubitus reference 5821/1A-001.
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