Pasha de Cartier: comeback of an icon
Star of the eighties, the famous Pasha de Cartier is coming back under the limelight and is asserting itself as one of the 2020 watches. Which is why it was chosen to be the star of the first show on the Youtube channel “FRANK SANS C”, dedicated to watchmaking and lifestyle.
Recognizable at first glance with its crown cap chained to the case, the singular Pasha de Cartier has incontestably characterized the 1980s. At the time, its originality also resided in a grid on the dial protecting it from impacts. An element which would disappear in time but nevertheless stay emblematic of this collection! As a matter of fact – without divulging any secret, but because we are well-informed – there is a high probability that the grid could soon be back on the Pasha de Cartier.
Pasha de Cartier: star of the 1980s
Distinctive in many ways, it is further distinguished by its “railway” minute tracks, square in a round case. The asymmetry is part of the Pasha de Cartier DNA and underlines the main characteristic of this great French maison: to surprise by its creativity. “You cannot spell Cartier without ‘Art’” is often said in the manufacture’s hallways. This house indeed specialized in “shaped” cases and even some very peculiars like the Cartier Crash watches, that we will soon discuss in an article and will be presented in a special show on “atypical watches”. See the Cartier Crash watches.
Cartier, King of jewellers, jeweller of kings.
Designed in 1985, the Pasha owes these identity features to a much older piece that we can rediscover through an attentive and – as always – pleasurable search through the Fondation Cartier books*. This model owes its name to Thami El Mezouari El Glaoui, none other than the Pasha of Marrakesh. Wealthy and powerful, the man also known as the “Black Panther” was an important luxury items collector and faithful client of Louis Cartier.
The legend says that he communicated at the time his desire to “be able to swim in his pool without losing all sense of time”. The Pasha’s wish was granted in 1943 with the development of a waterproof watch with an original design. Was it made for him? Historians do not unanimously agree. But it is a pleasing thought, since his name is associated with the watch.
1985, the great launch of the Pasha de Cartier
Among other key traits of the Pasha de Cartier, its four large Arabic numerals and its clous de Paris lugs must be mentioned. Of course, the launch of the Pasha in 1985 was a revolution. Nonconformism with a side of ostentation that instantly seduced the clientele looking for strong pieces.
The expert eye will nevertheless notice the presence of emblematic Cartier features such as the blued hands and the railway minute tracks. Quick reminder that the hands are blued manually in the Cartier manufacture’s Swiss workshops. A jealously preserved savoir-faire…
The iconic watch of the 1980s
When it came out, the eighties are in full swing. The Pasha de Cartier was then only available in yellow gold and a diameter of 38 mm, which was quite large at the time. Its features upset the codes and the watch makes a sensational debut in the watchmaking world. The protective grid seduces, surprises and has people talking. We either love or hate it. No matter: the grid is removable. Its strong personality attracts a golden and open-minded generation who will propel it to the status of icon. The Neuilly-Auteuil-Passy (select Parisian neighbourhoods) appropriate it and the watch shines like a diamond under the lights of Parisian private clubs. Notably Régine’s and Castel…
Pasha de Cartier: object of desire, symbol of success
Wanted both by men and by women who borrow it to accessorize their clothes with chic and audacity, the Pasha is on the front page of fashion magazines. This mediatic coverage will go hand in hand with its success among powerful women who see in this watch a visible illustration of their emancipation and independence. Apparent symbol of success, it becomes a way to show one’s status. Better yet, women massively seek it, and the icon becomes a must have of the businesswoman.
Pasha de Cartier: the “gold bar”
From the original Pasha of 1985, Cartier will create many variations that will constitute one of the most emblematic collections of the maison. A version entirely made of yellow gold makes for a true gold bar, also equipped with functions and complications needed for the hectic life of its owners and answering to the demands of a clientele used to the luxury world.
Among others, a surprising edition dedicated to golf players, with four counters actioned by distinct buttons to keep score. Other variations will be equipped with an alarm setting, a chronograph, or even, in a Grand complication edition, a perpetual calendar with moon phases and a minute repeater.
Pasha de Cartier: small size, big impact
In 1995, the Pasha C marks the ten years of the icon. Smaller (35 mm of diameter), it is entirely made of stainless steel for a sportwear look. In 1998, the Pasha 32, even smaller and with a removable grid, plays the femininity card with a gold case and diamonds mounted on the bezel. The 2000s will however give the lion share to male versions. First with a yellow gold edition of 42 mm with a manufacture calibre (2005), then a sportswear “Seatimer” version in stainless steel (2006) with a rubber strap and a graduated rotating bezel for scuba diving. Finally, the Miss Pasha came out in 2009, mini steel edition with a diameter of only 27 mm.
Pasha de Cartier: 2020, the great comeback
Today, this icon earned a beautiful lifting: subtle design adjustments, technical evolutions and a modern manufacture calibre.
Plastic surgeons usually say that “a lifting done right is not seen, only suspected”. Well, Cartier’s designers handled their pencils like a scalpel: with surgical precision. The master watchmakers then finished the work by installing a manufacture calibre. As said by Victor Hugo: “No exterior grace is complete without inner beauty giving it life. The beauty of the soul shines like a mysterious light on the beauty of the body.”
Modern, timeless, the watch has come back on the front of the watchmaking stage in time for the end of summer. Discreetly – but entirely – redesigned, it is available in two sizes, 35 and 41 mm. Among noticeable differences, the new crown deserves some attention.
And for good reason: it now boasts a blue spinel – or sapphire depending on the model – in addition to the one placed on the cap protecting the crown. Once unscrewed, this cap also reveals a secret space where initials can be engraved. A secret signature as Cartier often likes to place.
A manufacture calibre
Other major changes must be underlined even if they are not seen at first glance. Notably, the use of a manufacture Cartier calibre 1847 MC that will be visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back. The use of non-magnetic components in nickel-phosphorous for the calibre escapement and the presence of a “shield” made in a paramagnetic alloy embedded in the case gives the Pasha a high resistance to magnetic fields.
Indeed, these fields create chronometric precision perturbations. A waterproofness up to 100 m also efficiently protects the movement from ambient disturbances while allowing the owner to enjoy their swim. Quick reminder that a waterproofness of 10 bar (100 m) does not allow for wear while doing water ski, jet ski or scuba-diving.
A smart wristband
The Pasha de Cartier is delivered with two bracelets for a reason: they are interchangeable! They are furthermore equipped with an easy, invisible and intuitive system – “QuickSwitch” – functioning by simple press. And without any tool needed, even if Cartier offers a small one to facilitate the manipulation. In addition to this convenient device, the size of the metallic bracelet can be adjusted to down to the link. Each link with “SmartLink” has a pusher enabling to easily remove it or put it back with a manipulation of the fastening. No more excuse for men, they will have to lend their watch to their significant other.
New brand ambassadors
To cast light on this new generation of models, the maison Cartier brought together new brand ambassadors. Oscar-awarded actor Rami Malek, Willow Smith (multidisciplinary artist), actress Maisie Williams (Game of Thrones), Troye Sivan (songwriter and famous youtuber) and Jackson Wang (from South-Korean Kpop band GOT7) make up this young community of nonconformists celebrities, in line with the times, connecting the Pasha with the heart of our era.
*Source : Le Temps de Cartier (1989), by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti et Franco Nencici, Publisher : Milan, Wrist International srl, Fondation Cartier pour l’Art contemporain.
THE COLLECTION
PASHA DE CARTIER 2020
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WSPA0009 – Price : € 6 750
Steel case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 9,55 mm. Crown cap and crown set with blue synthetic spinel, silver flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with one steel bracelet equipped with the “SmartLink” adjustment system, second in dark grey alligator-skin, both with “QuickSwitch”. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WSPA0010 – Price: €6 250
Steel case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 9,55 mm. Crown cap and crown set with blue synthetic spinel, flinqué silver dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with two interchangeable bracelets with “QuickSwitch” in dark grey and navy alligator-skin. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WGPA0007 – Price : €17 000
Yellow gold case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 9,55 mm. Crown cap and crown set with sapphires, silver flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with two grey and navy alligator-skin interchangeable straps with “QuickSwitch”. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER SKELETON WATCH – Ref : WHPA0007 – Price : €26 400
Steel case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 10,45 mm. Crown cap and crown set with sapphires, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic skeleton caliber 9624 MC. Delivered with steel bracelet with “SmartLink” adjustment system and second strap in dark grey alligator, both fitted with the “QuickSwitch” interchangeability system. Water-resistant to 30 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER TOURBILLON SKELETON WATCH – Ref : WHPA0006 – Price : €96 000
Pink gold case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 10,45 mm. Crown cap and crown set with sapphire, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, tourbillon skeleton with hand-wound caliber 9466 MC. Delivered with two interchangeable bracelets with “QuickSwitch”, black and dark grey alligator-skin. Water-resistant to 30 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER TOURBILLON SKELETON WATCH – Ref : WHPI01435 – Price : €138 000
White gold case, Diameter: 41 mm, Thickness: 10,45 mm. Bezel, fluted crown, movement and buckle set with diamonds, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, tourbillon skeleton with hand-wound caliber 9466 MC. Delivered with two interchangeable bracelets with “QuickSwitch” black and dark grey alligator-skin. Water-resistant to 30 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCHES in 35 mm
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WSPA0013 – Price : €6 200
Steel case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Crown cap and crown set with synthetic spinels, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with steel bracelet with “SmartLink” adjustment system, second navy alligator-skin strap, both fitted with “QuickSwitch” interchangeable system. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WSPA0012 – Price : €5 700
Steel case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Crown cap and crown set with synthetic spinels, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with two interchangeable alligator-skin straps with “QuickSwitch”, fuschia and navy blue. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WGPA0014 – Price : €14 300
Rose gold case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Crown cap and crown set with sapphires, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with two alligator-skin interchangeable straps with “QuickSwitch”, navy blue and grey. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WJPA0012 – Price : €25 000
Rose gold case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Bezel set with diamonds, crown cap and crown set with sapphires, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with two alligator-skin interchangeable bracelets with “QuickSwitch”, navy blue and purple. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref : WJPA0013 – Price : €38 700
Rose gold case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Bezel set with diamonds, crown cap and crown set with sapphires, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC. Delivered with rose gold bracelet with “SmartLink” adjustment system, second navy blue alligator-skin strap, both fitted with the “QuickSwitch” interchangeable system. Water-resistant to 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTIER WATCH – Ref: WJPA0014 – Price: €126 000
White gold case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,37 mm. Bezel, crown protector and bracelet set with diamonds, crown set with a sapphire, silvered flinqué dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 1847 MC, white gold bracelet. Water-resistant 100 m.
PASHA DE CARTER BRILLIANT SET WATCH – Ref: WHPI01392 – Price: €188 000
Limited edition of 100 individually numbered pieces, white gold case, Diameter: 35 mm, Thickness: 9,90 mm. Bezel, crown protector, dial and bracelet set with diamonds, crown set with a sapphire, Serti Vibrant dial, blued-steel hands, sapphire glass case-back, automatic caliber 530 MC, white gold bracelet. Water-resistant to 30 m.