The episode 2 of the « sporty chic » steel watches
The steel watches represent an essential part of the watchmaking market because this material is perceived as noble while being less expensive than gold. For a few years, the proportion of the available pieces on these bracelets is on rise. At his followers’ request his followers, here is a second selection of pieces presented by Frank sans C.
For a decade, the steel watches are more and more. For a long time, they have been rare, particularly in Europe where only a few pieces renowned sporty for men and icons a bit chic for women could be adorned of a steel bracelet without looking like shifted assemblies. Chic was then leather. Only, today with the internalization of the markets and with the exponential growth of the ones of the Middle East and South-East Asia where the climatic conditions are particularly warm and humid, the watchmakers had to think of offering references to wear at the wrist on metallic liens.
The reasons of a change
Today, if we must talk about figures, almost 70 % of the watches sold worldwide are round and to wear on steel bracelet. The figure speaks for itself in a market where 62% of the Swiss luxury watches are sold in Asia. It is necessary to be adapted to the demand and demanding environments. Because, in equatorial areas where the ambient air is warm and humid, and there is an important possibility to sweat, the life span of a leather strap is only a few days, at best a few weeks. At the price of these devices, you might as well save money by directly buying our favourite watch on a metal bracelet that will remain unaffected to these bad climatic conditions. It must be said, there is nothing more frustrating and displeasing that wearing a beautiful watch whose leather strap is slowly fall into disrepair, due to a too strong humidity. And from a hygienic point of view, hard to make better than a metal bracelet. Because we just need to rinse it under a trickle of water regularly and softly brush it so that it keeps for years this brand-new aspect so gratifying for its owner.
In his episode 2, Frank Sans C presents a selection of six steel watches sporty and chic at the same time.
ZENITH Defy Skyline: a star watch
Since always, Zenith looked for leaving its mark on watchmaking with robust and unique timepieces, made to go with their owners. Like the Zenith Defy Skyline that we have presented in our article the Zenith Defy Skyline, a lightning small second.
Price: €8,300 – Have a look at the Zenith Defy Skyline’s technical specifications sheet.
The Santos de Cartier: initial ideal type
A story of friendship
This avant-garde watch jewels has been designed by Louis Cartier for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, the famous balloonist and pilot. Square with balanced proportions, this piece was the first of a new type.
Evolving throughout decades, it was worn on metal bracelet from 1978 then again ten years later. Redesigned in 2018 by the Cartier Creation Studio, it evolved while respecting the standards of the collection. The novelty is in the design of the bezel that favours the synergy between the lines of the case and the one of the bracelets.
A new smart bracelet
In terms of ergonomics, the new steel bracelet was redesigned to favour the balance and flexibility. For practical questions and historical because the initial piece has been imagined for a leather strap, the current liens are equipped with of the QuickSwitch patented system. This allows to take them to pieces without tool of the watch head water-resistant to 100 m having a manufacture calibre 1847MC and to assemble in « a flash » the leather strap for more solemnity and to pass a steel bracelet for a sportier experience. We will also remember that the metal bracelet benefits from the SmartLink patented technology. It is a very ingenuous mechanism integrated to each link that serve to adjust the length of the bracelet, here again, without tool. This processing of the bracelet is the result of the brands’ will to reduce the involvement of participants specialised in simple operations that an owner of a watch can makes at home with minimum tools. Furthermore, this optimisation was spread to the new folding clasp that is today interchangeable, much more ergonomics and more reliable.
Price: €7,650 – Have a look at our technical specifications sheet of the steel Santos de Cartier.
IWC – The Portugieser Automatic 40: the asserted versability
Let it be said: the high-quality fine steel bracelet assembled on the Portugieser Automatic 40 by IWC gives to this watch a sporty touch. Saying this, it is a bit like labouring the point, but the metal bracelet is the ultimate weapon to hope conquering Asian markets. Robust and practical daily, it is unquestionably designed to make one with the case middle for all the piece’s life span because it resists to sweat, humidity of tropical areas and salty air.
With this robust bracelet, this 40.4 mm-diameter watch for 12.3 mm-thickness and water-resistant to 30 m, is inspired by a piece from the 1930s, is powered by a mechanical and self-winding manufacture ultra-robust calibre. And to last, the calibre is equipped with a power reserve of 60 hours, visible by the transparent caseback, is equipped with a Pellaton winding system reinforced by ceramic components almost hard-wearing.
Price: €8,350
Steel case
40.4 mm-diameter
Transparent case in sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 30 m
IWC manufacture movement
82200 Calibre
Self-winding Pellaton
Power reserve of 60 hours
Frequency 28,800 vph (4.0 hz)
192 Components
31 precious stones
Côtes de Genève, spotting
Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflection on both sides
Small second with stop device
GRAND SEIKO – The Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours: the eternal shinto spirit
In a country known for its contrasted and humid climates, it is important for a local manufacturer to offer watches equipped with bracelets able to resist to these climates durably. The Japanese brand, very attached to the aesthetic of its pieces and concerned to ensure their total graphical integrity in the long term, has therefore worked the bracelet of this Hi-beat 36000 80 Hours watch to offer a new perspective of the brand philosophy « The Nature of Time ».
The design is faithful to the Grand Seiko style defined in 1967 with the famous 44GS, but this inheritance is today combined with a powerful modern touch that announces a new era. This piece of timeless design coming with a bracelet with a classic design that makes it easy to forget. It integrates admirably with the case middle to reveal a majestic dial inspired by white birch forests. These trees with slender trunks and a strikingly beauty flourish in the northern regions of Japan and grow in profusion near the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi where all the Maison’s mechanical watches are made.
The one presented here is powered by the revolutionary calibre Hi-beat 9SA5, that offers a precision from +5 to -3 seconds per day and a long power reserve of 80 hours. The precision, the power, and the fineness of the calibre 9SA5 – the base on which a new generation of Grand Seiko mechanical watches will be created in the future – are the result of a radical redesign of the key structures, including the entirely new escapement and the free balance spring developed in house.
Price: €9,500
Technical specifications:
Reference SLGH005
Steel case 40 mm
Manual winding movement
Water-resistant to 100 m
Screw-down crown Sapphire crystal
Steel bracelet with folding clasp
Reference SLGH005
Steel case 40 mm
Manual winding movement
Water-resistant to 100 m
Screw-down crown Sapphire crystal
Steel bracelet with folding clasp
MONTBLANC – Star Legacy: strong as a rock
This new Montblanc Star Legacy LE1786 Blue Capsule collection centres on three flagship pieces offered in limited edition. The one in steel that interesses us here is the 39mm-diameter automatic « three date hands » version. Like the other references, it keeps this link with the top of Mont Blanc thanks to its new dark blue glacier effect dial – colour that Frank sans C talks about.
It is here adorned with a superimposition of iced pattern inspired by the Ice Sea, the most important Mont Blanc glacier. The relief finish is obtained by stamping and imitates the geometric texture of the pressurised ice. The colour pays tribute to the blue hour, this moment at dusk where the glacier goes dark blue, when the moon rises, and the stars start to shine. Another remarkable point of the piece: its refined line.
It is reminiscent of the Minerva pocket watches from the beginning of the 20th century, with their pebble-shaped cases. This design is here highlighted with domed crystals at the front and back of this reference. Another characteristic element: the onion-shaped winding crown decorated with the Montblanc emblem and that we find on the second hand. But the most remarkable, is its steel bracelet made up of five fine links. It ensures it a flexibility at the wearing and perfectly fits the wrist of its owner. Classical with its inherited lines of the 1990-2000s, this watch will be appealing to the enthusiasts for simple things having a well-known hallmark worldwide for its vision of chic but not ostentatious luxury.
Price: €2,270 – Limited Edition to 1,786 pieces
Technical specifications:
Self-winding mechanical movement
Calibre MB 24.17
Power reserve of 38 hours
Frequency 28,800 Vibrations/Hour (4Hz)
Hours, minutes, and seconds
Date aperture at 6 o’clock
Steel case 39 mm
Domed sapphire crystal scratch-resistant with double anti-reflective coatingWater-resistant to 50 m
Steel crown with Montblanc emblem
Dark blue dial with glacier pattern
Arabic numerals rose gold plated
Self-winding mechanical movement
Calibre MB 24.17
Power reserve of 38 hours
Frequency 28,800 Vibrations/Hour (4Hz)
Hours, minutes, and seconds
Date aperture at 6 o’clock
Steel case 39 mm
Domed sapphire crystal scratch-resistant with double anti-reflective coatingWater-resistant to 50 m
Steel crown with Montblanc emblem
Dark blue dial with glacier pattern
Arabic numerals rose gold plated
Steel bracelet
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL – The PanoMaticInverse: the total sporty-chic
Successfully launched in 2008, the PanoInverse has been the first watch of the Saxon manufacture to reveal its inner beauty by featuring, on the dial side the main plate but also and this is less common, regulating organ in the style of the Hebdomas’ pocket watches.
Exceptional in terms of finishing, this piece is available in two versions: one is equipped with a 42 mm-diameter satin-finished and polished red gold case with gold applied chapters and a brown nubuck-style Louisiana alligator strap. And another polished fine steel also 42 mm-diameter with blue applied chapters. Both, have an automatic Calibre 91-02 whose one part of the components are also visible by the transparent caseback. We discover among other components: the open worked oscillating weight equipped with a rotor section made of 21 carats gold, the primary gear, some details of finishing like the Côtes de Glashütte, a few rubies and a two-tone engraving on the bridge of the gears.
The asymmetrical design of the watch allowed to make a generous space for the double gooseneck fine adjustment and is reminiscent of the off-centred dial design characteristic of the Pano collection from Glashütte Original.
Price:
€13,500 on folding clasp
€13,100 euros on clasp
Technical specifications:
Steel case 42 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Blued steel hands coated with SuperLuminova Self-winding movement
Calibre 91-02
Functions: hour and minute, small second, panorama date
Power reserve of 42 hours
Water-resistant to 50 m
Open worked yellow gold oscillating weight
Côtes de Glashütte decorations
Blue alligator leather strap
Steel case 42 mm
Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Blued steel hands coated with SuperLuminova Self-winding movement
Calibre 91-02
Functions: hour and minute, small second, panorama date
Power reserve of 42 hours
Water-resistant to 50 m
Open worked yellow gold oscillating weight
Côtes de Glashütte decorations
Blue alligator leather strap