The new temptation of Serpenti…
Exclusively worldwide, Frank Sans C had the honor and privilege of hosting a show in Dubai for a third-type encounter with a horological UFO, straight from the minds of two ultra-creative individuals: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Director of Horological Creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, Founder and Creative Director of MB&F. Together, they reinterpret Bvlgari's icon: the Serpenti, in a more than bold proposal that shakes up traditional horological codes. Impressive!
“For the first time, it is a feminine watch that has inspired the release of a masculine watch: The Serpenti by Bvlgari x MB&F.” Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari.
Bvlgari and MB&F, a long-standing friendship
When one is familiar with the worlds of Bvlgari and MB&F, it becomes clear that they are fundamentally different, both technically and aesthetically. However, it is undeniable that they share a strong commitment to innovation, combined with a certain freedom of expression, which is reflected in the exuberance of their horological creations.
And this isn’t their first collaboration. Their partnership dates back to 2021, when the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra watch was born—a fascinating fusion of the Roman house’s vibrant high jewelry universe and MB&F’s signature “Horological Machines.” Today, this duo of “mad watchmakers” takes on an icon among icons: the Serpenti.
A major challenge that, beyond merely reinterpreting this model inspired by automotive design, required a complete overhaul, including mechanical construction, movement design, case design, and manufacturing.
Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti: A Case of Great Complexity
The result of a hundred sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti watch “was a real pleasure to create,” according to Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. However, this does not take away from the difficulty of designing this atypical instrument with futuristic looks.
True to MB&F’s three-dimensional kinetic sculptures, this watch, with its imposing dimensions – 53 x 39 x 18 mm – offers different views, with each angle having to be considered without altering the others.
The curves of the metal structures are the result of true machining puzzles, such as the five sapphire crystals forming the serpent’s eyes and the faceted rear section. An excessively difficult combination to make water-resistant to 30 meters, according to Maximilian Büsser, who also states: “The biomorphic design of this watch presented immense challenges in terms of the case, but also the movement.”
A horological feat that defies conventions
In a sophisticated setting, the collaboration between Bvlgari and MB&F gives birth to a revolutionary timepiece that reinvents the codes of traditional craftsmanship. Conceived and developed in-house by MB&F, this watch redefines the industry’s standards with an innovative mechanical approach. One of the major innovations of this model lies in the animation of the serpent’s eyes, a concept envisioned from the outset by Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani.
To materialize this vision, the hours and minutes are displayed on two rotating domes: the first completes a full rotation in 12 hours, while the second turns in 60 minutes. Made from ultra-thin aluminum to ensure their lightness, these domes require a highly precise milling process. Their Super-LumiNova coating ensures optimal readability in the dark, giving the serpent’s gaze a mysterious and hypnotic glow.
At the heart of this creation, a large 14 mm flying balance wheel embodies the mechanical soul of the reptile. Equipped with four traditional regulation screws, it oscillates at a classic frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour). It is supported by a three-dimensional bridge, engraved with the names of the two watchmaking houses. The crowns, discreetly integrated into the back horns of the model, allow both winding of the movement and time setting. On the reverse side of this horological masterpiece, one finds the power reserve indicator (approximately 45 hours) as well as all 310 components of the manual-winding movement, carefully assembled by hand.
“This piece was a true pleasure to design, but technically very complicated to produce. The goal was to offer a completely different vision. The serpent is a magnificent object that attracts many collectors. I believe we’ve succeeded in opening up new horizons for the Bvlgari serpent. It is not just a feminine object rooted in the Maison’s DNA, but also – for the first time – a technical object that reflects Bvlgari’s aesthetic and highlights MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it’s a win-win project,” explains Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani.
Three versions of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti.
This exclusive partnership unveils an ultra-limited collection, consisting of three unique versions, each limited to only 33 pieces.
The first edition features a Grade 5 titanium case, enhanced with blue domes displaying the hours and minutes. The second variation stands out with an 18-carat rose gold case, accentuated by piercing green eyes. As for the ultimate reference, in steel coated with black PVD, it captures attention with the intensity of its luminous red eyes.
104047 – Grade 5 titanium – Blue – 140,000 euros (excl. tax)
104139 – Black PVD steel – 140,000 euros (excl. tax)
104057 – Rose gold – Green – 161,000 euros (excl. tax)
Technical details:
Movement
MB&F in-house manual winding movement
Custom 14 mm flying balance with four traditional regulation screws floating above the domed dials
Functions: hours, minutes, power reserve (45 hours)
Hours on the left dome (aluminum dome rotating fully in 12 hours)
Minutes on the right dome (aluminum dome rotating fully in 60 minutes)
Power reserve indicator on the back of the movement with dedicated hand and metallization on the sapphire glass of the caseback
Case, dial, and strap
39 mm case with domes for hours and minutes
Dimensions: 53 x 39 x 18 mm
The openworked design reveals the intricate gears of the movement, with a caseback featuring a power reserve indicator.
5 sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on each side.
Left crown at 11 o’clock for winding.
Right crown at 1 o’clock for time adjustment.
Water resistance: 3 ATM / 30 meters.
Indexes and markers with Super-LumiNova coating.
Rubber strap.
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