Universal Genève: the watchmaking phoenix…
Universal Genève introduces three SAS Polerouter watches to celebrate the 70th anniversary of SAS's (Scandinavian Airlines System) first flight over the North Pole, from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, in 1954.
credit @SAS – Scandinavian Airlines.
On November 15, 1954, Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) made aviation history by completing the first commercial flight over the North Pole, connecting Copenhagen to Los Angeles and reducing the distance by 2,600 kilometers.
For this occasion, Universal Genève created the Polerouter, a watch designed to accompany pilots on this unprecedented journey over the pole. A flight that was not without risk, with mandatory stops to refuel on icy lands…
credit @SAS – Scandinavian Airlines
Designed by Gérald Genta, then just 23 years old, this iconic watch combined technical innovation with timeless elegance, resistant to shocks, magnetism, and humidity, making it adaptable to all climates. With this creation, the young Genta marked the beginning of a long career filled with watchmaking icons: the AP Royal Oak, the IWC Ingenieur, and the PP Nautilus, among others.
An Exceptional Tribute: Three Watches for a Legend
To mark the 70th anniversary of this historic flight, Universal Genève is unveiling three “tribute” editions of the Polerouter, unique pieces presented on November 15, 2024, in Copenhagen. These exclusive creations embody the brand’s innovative spirit and pay homage to Gérald Genta’s design legacy.
Georges Kern, CEO of Universal Genève, states:
“These tribute watches are a perfect celebration of the spirit of innovation and elegance of the original Polerouter, while heralding the renaissance of our Maison, planned for 2026.“
Each watch is equipped with the iconic “Microtor” 1-69 caliber, a watchmaking marvel from the 1950s. This revolutionary movement of its time, measuring just 4.1 mm, placed the rotor (micro-rotor) at the level of the main plate, significantly reducing the overall thickness. This groundbreaking innovation in the history of modern watchmaking remains at the heart of these new editions, seamlessly blending history and modernity.
A Model at Auction to Preserve Craftsmanship
The flagship piece of this collection will be auctioned at Phillips in May 2025, benefiting the CFP Arts de Genève, a school dedicated to applied arts. This model stands out with a white gold case and a hand-crafted mesh-style bracelet (editor’s note: over thirty days of work!), featuring the historic and modern SAS logos in the airline’s signature blue.
The timeless design, with its signature twisted lugs, has been preserved, although the stylistic elements of the original model have been slightly reworked, notably to improve water resistance.
Two Watches for Universal Genève Archives
The two other Polerouter models created for the anniversary of this historic flight will join the maison’s archives. One, crafted in 18-carat red gold with a black dial, and the other, in stainless steel, retain the distinctive design and construction of the Polerouter, enhanced, it must be said, with an alluring touch of modernity.
A legacy signed by Gérald Genta
The Polerouter, originally named Polarouter (the name was changed to make it more easily pronounceable), was Gérald Genta’s first creation, who would go on to become one of the greatest watch designers of all time. A stroke of genius – even then – as its two-part dial with indices fixed to the glass created a unique three-dimensional effect. This design, patented in 1953, laid the foundation for a revolutionary style that continues to inspire watch designers today.
The SAS Transpolar Adventure
The historic 1954 flight involved two Douglas DC-6B, the Helge Viking and the Leif Viking, which departed simultaneously from Copenhagen and Los Angeles. With stopovers in Greenland and Canada, this journey brought together political figures and journalists, marking a diplomatic as well as an aeronautical event at the time.
Credit @SAS – Scandinavian Airlines
Following this success, SAS expanded its polar routes, connecting Tokyo in 1957 and Singapore in 1967. The Polerouter thus became much more than just a watch; it became the symbol of an era when boldness and innovation were redefining the boundaries of the possible.
Credit @SAS – Scandinavian Airlines
Will we ever see a new “Polerouter SAS” neo-vintage return to the collection? We all hope so! Some sources close to the matter seem to think so. In any case, given the camaraderie between the two CEOs involved during the recent event in Copenhagen, it opens the door to hope.
A door that will need to be checked, just like the opposite door, by competent cabin crew.
PNC? Polerouter Nouvelle Collectionnable, of course!