Watches and Wonders 2025: Bvlgari and Rolex spring a surprise!

BVLGARI, Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon

10ᵉ world record for the Octo Finissimo collection, which is enriched by an Ultra Tourbillon model just 1.85 mm thick. Bvlgari has succeeded in integrating a skeleton tourbillon into the plate made of tungsten carbide, a material that ensures extreme robustness. More than a horological feat: a madness. But how far will it go? We wonder, but we love it!

This is not the Maison’s first time. Indeed, 2014 marks the start of all records. It unveiled the 1.95mm-thick Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel, which went on to win numerous awards, including the coveted “Aiguille d’Or” at the GPHG (Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève). Today, Bvlgari has added an extra challenge by skeletonizing the dial as much as possible, leaving each element free to express itself. Light is diffused through the dial to play with the rhodium-plated or sunrayed contrasts of the tourbillon’s balance and bridges, as well as its inertia weights.

Back to the flying tourbillon, the one that turns heads. Located at 5 o’clock, it is driven by a hand-wound mechanical movement, offering approximately 42 hours of power reserve, and oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). The time is set and the barrel wound by two wheels on either side of the timepiece.

In terms of design, the 40 mm-diameter case takes up the emblematic octagon shape – a historical evocation of the coffered ceilings of the Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine in Rome. It features a bezel and middle in sand-blasted titanium, a material also used for the integrated 1.50 mm-thick bracelet. To complete this marvel of superlatives, the steel ratchet, visible between 9 and 12 o’clock, features geometric decorations. Between noon and 3 o’clock, the hours and minutes dial is in sandblasted brass with anthracite DLC treatment, while the hands are rhodium-plated.

“Each record was a milestone. Achieving a record is not just about breaking barriers, but also about redefining the possibilities of mechanical watchmaking. Each time, we had to challenge not only traditional watchmaking techniques, but also the way watches are designed and developed.” Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bvlgari.

Before this one, the 9 world records for the Octo Finissimo
 
2014 – OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON MANUEL – 1st world record – BVL 268 – 1,95 mm
2016 – OCTO FINISSIMO Répétition Minutes – 2d world record – BVL 362 – 3,12 mm
2017 – OCTO FINISSIMO AUTOMATIQUE – 3rd world record – BVL 138 – 2, 23 mm
2018 – OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON AUTOMATIQUE – 4th world record – BVL 288 – 1,95 mm
2019 – OCTO FINISSIMO CHRONOGRAPH GMT AUTOMATIQUE – 5th world record – BVL 318 – 3, 30 mm
2020 – OCTO FINISSIMO TOURBILLON CHRONOGRAPH SQUELETTE AUTOMATIQUE – 6th world record – BVL 388 – 3,50 mm
2021 – OCTO FINISSIMO Calendrier Perpétuel – 7th world record – BVL 305 – 2, 75 mm – Prix de l’Aiguille d’Or 2021
2022 – OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA – 8th world record – BVL 180 – 1.80 mm
2024 – OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA COSC – 9th world record – BVL 180 – 1.70 mm

€750,000

Technical details:

BVF 900 ultra-slim mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement
40 mm case with sand-blasted titanium lugs, bezel and middle
Tungsten carbide main plate
Hooped stainless steel winding and time-setting wheels
Hooped steel Rochet engraved with geometric decoration
Sand-blasted titanium bracelet with fully integrated folding clasp, 1.50 mm thick
Sand-blasted brass hour and minute counters with anthracite DLC coating, polished brass hands with rhodium-plated coating

BVLGARI, Serpenti Aeterna

The new Serpenti Aeterna marks the metamorphosis of Bvlgari’s reptilian icon. As stealthy as ever, she appears in a modern, graphic version. Everyone can make their own interpretation: neophytes will see it as a precious, delicate bezel, while connoisseurs will see it as an ultra-stylised version of this watchmaking symbol. Like two shooting stars, two extremely fluid temptations await us. The first expresses itself in a pink gold livery set with round diamonds. It houses an entirely pavé dial, whose fine rose-gold-plated hands move with the beat of a beautifully crafted quartz movement. Available in two sizes (S and L), the bracelet wraps around the wearer’s wrist for a highly sophisticated look.

The second is a high-jewelry iteration in white gold, with a perfectly executed setting of diamonds of various sizes. Ultimate detail: the dial, also pavé-set, is contrasted with green hour and minute hands – a mysterious, hypnotic evocation of the reptile eyes found on some figurative Serpenti.

Serpenti Aeterna in rose gold – €81,500
Serpenti Aeterna in white gold – €200,000 (excl.tax)

Technical details:

Quartz movement
Functions: hours, minutes
Curved case in pink gold / white gold set with round diamonds
Crown in pink gold set with a brilliant-cut diamond / in white gold set with a brilliant-cut emerald
Bracelet in pink gold / white gold set with diamonds
Diamond-paved dial with pink gold-plated hour-markers / green hour-markers

BVLGARI WEBSITE

ROLEX, Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller

The one that caused a stir on social networks, when it was spotted on Roger Federer’s wrist, even before its official launch on April 1ᵉʳ, the new Land-Dweller collection signed Rolex, was no April fool. On the contrary, this novelty is real. With its thirty-two patent applications, eighteen of which are exclusive (sixteen for the movement and two for the casing), this edition is distinguished by its integrated bracelet, a design that the brand with the crown had already explored in 1969 with the Rolex Quartz and in 1974 with an automatic Rolex Datejust.

Now christened “Flat Jubilee” and specially designed for the Rolex Land-Dweller, the metal bracelet is a seamless continuation of the case. In a highly successful interplay of finishes, it features five links: three small ones in the middle, polished and raised, and two larger ones, satin-finished. The attachment system has been patented to ensure perfect integration with the case. The bracelet of this new Rolex also features an invisible Crownclasp, which blends in with the links.

Embellished with a fluted bezel, the Rolex Land-Dweller is available in 40 mm diameters in grey Rolesor and 950 platinum, and in 36 mm in 18-carat Everose gold. Each features a new dial adorned with a honeycomb motif (found on the unbalanced second hand). Created using a femtosecond laser, the honeycomb pattern creates a stylized face. The result is a satin-finish finish for the white dials, and soleillée for the blue. All dials are embellished with an inclined flange and punctuated with the numerals 6 and 9, reminiscent of those on the Rolex Air-King and Rolex Explorer, which have the distinctive feature of being open at the inner end. The indexes are covered in luminescent material, as are the straight hands. At 3 o’clock, the date is highlighted by the characteristic Cyclops magnifying glass.

The highlight of the show: the self-winding movement, visible through the transparent caseback, features an openworked yellow gold oscillating weight decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève on the bridges. The calibre 7135 is distinguished by its innovative regulating system. The revolutionary Dynapulse escapement is the subject of seven patent applications. The oscillator, meanwhile, beats at a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour) and is accurate to 1/10th of a second. It is also equipped with a non-magnetic silicon Syloxi balance spring. This remarkable movement is certified Chronomètre Superlatif (COSC + Rolex certification), and offers approximately sixty-six hours of power reserve.

Land-Dweller in Oystersteel steel and white gold – €15,350
Land-Dweller in platinum – €64,200
Land-Dweller in Everose gold and diamonds – €90,850

ROLEX WEBSITE

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