{"lien_WSTV":"","tax_name":"deprecated","tax_rate":20,"id_manufacturer":"0","id_supplier":"0","id_category_default":"677","id_shop_default":"1","manufacturer_name":false,"supplier_name":false,"name":"Type 20 Chronographe 2057","description":"<p><strong>BREGUET TYPE XX<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Press Kit - English June 2023<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><\/p>\n<p><strong>TYPE XX\u00a0A\u00a0STRONG\u00a0COMEBACK<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This collection enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years has accompanied the history of aviation \u2013 whether on pilots\u2019 wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. The Manufacture Breguet proudly unveils a\u00a0redesigned line that is innovative, highly\u00a0contemporary and brimming with nods to history.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n<p>The year 2023 brings a new Type XX,\u00a0new\u00a0momentum,\u00a0a new\u00a0generation\u00a0and an all-new calibre. Four years of preparation preceded the\u00a0\u00a0 arrival\u00a0\u00a0 of the new generation of iconic Type XX watches, this time, issued in two versions to meet all expectations: one military- inspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models. Taking cues from the emblematic first-generation models, Breguet has instilled a contemporary, dynamic and technological spirit into these watches. The Type XX saga clearly shows no sign of petering out!<\/p>\n<p><strong>A RETURN TO ROOTS<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>It was entirely natural for Breguet to draw on its inexhaustible heritage in creating the new Type XX. Putting things into context, one may recall that in the early 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of air forces wishing to equip themselves with a robust wrist\u00a0chronograph featuring certain distinctive\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">characteristics.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>A prestigious and widely recognised firm keen to be part of humankind\u2019s great adventures, Breguet placed itself at the service of airborne navigation in the 20th century, just as it had done for maritime navigation in the 19th century. A large number of pilots acquired Breguet watches, including Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1910, American pilots stationed in France in 1918, the Louis Breguet aviation company, Japanese pilots visiting France in the 1920s, and many others...<\/p>\n<p><strong><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">TIME AND AIRBORNE NAVIGATION<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>For pilots, and more generally for air- crew members, keeping track of time on board an aircraft \u2013 meaning preserving temporal references within an environ- ment characterised by intense activity and stress \u2013 is a vital necessity. Opera- tions such as measuring flight time or intermediate flight times, monitoring fuel consumption, taking bearings and carry- ing out manoeuvres all required instru- ments that watchmakers would render both more accurate and convenient to handle over the years: on-board chrono- graphs and soon thereafter chronograph wristwatches.<\/p>\n<p>A study of the company archives reveals that numerous \u201cspecial\u201d products \u2013 i.e. suited to the particular constraints of the aeronautical environment \u2013 were introduced from the 1930s onwards. 19-line aerodrome chronometers in an antimagnetic silver case, split-second chronographs, small 24-line on-board chronometers with a heat-insulated case, a thermostat and lighting, siderometers... All these highly technical timepieces were delivered both to military aviation and to the recently created French na- tional airline, Air France.<\/p>\n<p>Delivery of watchmaking instruments for aircraft instrument panels increased from the early 1950s onwards and for 30 years was one of Breguet\u2019s recognised special- ities. The most widespread models were the Type 11, 11\/1 and 12, which were sold to a dozen countries and featured on the\u00a0instrument panels of numerous aircraft, notably the unforgettable, supersonic\u00a0 Concorde.<\/p>\n<p>In the 1930s, the company was already\u00a0producing more and more wristwatches with a chronograph function and the\u00a0post-war period confirmed the trend. The fashion for wrist worn chronographs was launched and has continued un- abated ever since.<\/p>\n<p>For pilots, time is so precious when aboard aircraft that it is necessary, for safety reasons, to establish a\u00a0 princi- ple of redundancy. At the time, that meant backing\u00a0 up\u00a0 the\u00a0 chronograph on the instrument panel with another chronograph \u2013 and not just any mod- el \u2013 strapped to the pilot\u2019s wrist. If one became unusable, the other would take over. This was the whole point of the watchmaking instruments in which Breg- uet was to become a specialist, notably with the legendary Type XX.<\/p>\n<p><strong>JOURNEY OF\u00a0AN ICON\u00a0ANDITS\u00a0LANDMARKS<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>It is impossible to describe the history of\u00a0a model as emblematic as the Type XX\u00a0in just few lines. We will therefore confine ourselves to a brief overview of the successive milestone models featured in the company\u2019s catalogue across almost 70 years.<\/p>\n<p>According to the archives, things began in the early 1950s when the company, already a specialist in products dedicat- ed to the aviation industry, learned that the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting the following technical specifi- cations: a black dial with luminescent nu- merals, luminescent hands, a high-qual- ity movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating be- zel and of course a \u201cflyback\u201d function, to mention but the most important. It was the Air Ministry that named the future product \u201cType XX\u201d.<\/p>\n<p>Several companies competed and won contracts, which meant that several brands would produce Type XXs; on the other hand, the brands selected for public contracts could also sell the same product to private customers. This led to the production of military Type XXs and civilian Type XXs.<\/p>\n<p>For Breguet, things went as follows: the prototypes submitted by the company in 1952 were approved in 1953 by the Ser- vice Technique A\u00e9ronautique. In 1954, the French Air Force placed an order for 1,100 military Type 20s, which were de- livered between 1955 and 1959. They feature a 30-minute totalizer and their dial is unsigned, while the back bears the official inscriptions BREGUET - TYPE 20\u00a0- 5101\/54.<\/p>\n<p>Another prestigious customer, the Centre d\u2019Essais en Vol (CEV) for elite French test pilots ordered 80 timepieces that were delivered in 1956 and 1957. They have a 15-minute totalizer and 50 of them fea- ture a 12-hour totalizer at 6 o\u2019clock; while the letters CEV followed by a number from 1 to 80 are engraved on the back.<\/p>\n<p>In 1958, the French Navy ordered 500 timepieces for the pilots and sailors of its airborne wing, the A\u00e9ronautique Navale. Delivered in full on 13 January 1960, these Type XX military timepiec- es are significantly different from those of the Air Force: their 15-minute totalizer is housed in a circle with an enlarged di- ameter; their dial is signed and their back bears the inscription BREGUET - MA- RINE NATIONALE - AERONAUTIQUE NAVALE - N\u00b0 X \/ 500.<\/p>\n<p>The reputation of the Type XX quickly spread beyond the military sphere, lead- ing to a situation where the world of civil aviation and chronograph enthusiasts were also keen to acquire a Type XX from Breguet. Even though the Valjoux 14-line movement was replaced in 1963 by a modernized 13-line movement, and despite certain perceptible variations in terms of dial, the hands or the bezel, the Type XX underwent barely any aesthet- ic modifications until 1970. More than 2000 \u201ccivilian\u201d Type XX models were sold.<\/p>\n<p>The second-generation Type XX arrived in 1971 and is recognisable by its enlarged polished steel case, thick lugs and black bezel. Available with or without a 12-hour totalizer, it continued to feature a 15-minute counter. Nearly 800 of these timepieces were sold, most of them to civilians; while on the military side, only 50 pieces were delivered to the Royal Moroccan Air Force. Orders were also placed by A\u00e9rospatiale (later Airbus Industries) and purchased by the Presidency of the French Republic as official gifts. The last ones were sold in 1986, spelling the (provisional) end of more than 30 years of a rich history.<\/p>\n<p>After a barely ten-year absence, Type XX enjoyed a revival in 1995 with the appearance of the third generation in the form of Reference 3800 \u201cA\u00e9ronavale\u201d (without date) and subsequently Reference 3820 \u201cTransatlantique\u201d (with date). The new Type XX picks up the traditional aviation characteristics: black dial, rotating bezel, \u201cflyback\u201d function, now backed by the convenience of a self-winding movement. Aesthetically, it features a fluted caseband, a somewhat anachronistic legacy of the \u201chistorical Breguet\u201d style.<\/p>\n<p>It proved successful and led to numerous interpretations, with a variety of precious metals and dial colour changes over the years. The line was enriched by an alarm watch(Reference 3860) and a Type XX for ladies (Reference 4820), before the 2004 arrival of the Type XXI (Reference 3810) and the 2010 introduction\u00a0\u00a0 of the impressive Type XXII (Reference 3880) incorporating high-frequency technology and silicon. Type XXI in turn welcomed many variations and some limited series, right the way through to the models unveiled in recent years (References 3817 and 3815).<\/p>\n<p><strong>BREGUET AVIATION<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Fascinated by the conquest of the air, Louis Charles \u2013 grandson of Louis Cl\u00e9ment Breguet, whose own grandfather was Abraham-Louis Breguet\u00a0\u2013 got involved in the aeronautical adventure in the early 20th century. He began by building gyroplanes (the forerunner of the helicopter) before creating the Louis Breguet aviation workshops in 1911. Several of his aircraft enjoyed international attention. The Breguet family had a very good relationship with the Brown family that had acquired the watchmaking company in 1870. It was therefore only natural that aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet should turn to the Browns to discuss the watchmaking needs of the aeronautical world. Louis Breguet thus purchased watches from the Breguet watchmaking company to equip his aircraft and pilots.<\/p>\n<p>In 1966, Marcel Dassault bought up the company founded by Louis Breguet and merged it with his own in 1971 under the name Avions\u00a0Marcel Dassault-Breguet Aviation. The firm was renamed Dassault Aviation in 1990.<\/p>\n<p><strong>LEGENDARY CLIENTS<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>With orders from the French Air Force, followed by the Centre d\u2019Essais en Vol, the A\u00e9ronautique Navale and numerous civilian pilots, the entire aviation elite took to the skies with the famous Type XX.<\/p>\n<p>We know from the company\u2019s archives that one of the first Type XXs was given by aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet to the great aviator Jacqueline Auriol, a test pilot and internationally renowned figure in women\u2019s aviation.<\/p>\n<p>Many aeronautical organisations also regularly purchased Type XX watches. The Royal Moroccan Air Force was also a customer of the second-generation Type XX in the 1970s, as were A\u00e9rospatiale (later Airbus Industries), the French Pres- idency, ENAC (\u00c9cole Nationale de l\u2019Avia- tion Civile), the Gendarmerie Nationale, the Heli-Union helicopter company, the Office G\u00e9n\u00e9ral de l\u2019Air (OGA) and many others...<\/p>\n<p>The fact that Type XX also appealed to the sports world is a not widely-known reality. Motor-racing organisations including the\u00a0Monte Carlo Rally rewarded winners with\u00a0Type XX watches. Famous drivers such\u00a0as Fernand Masoero, Jack Brabham and\u00a0Pierre Alexandre had a Type XX on their\u00a0wrists. The latter\u2019s watch is now part of the Breguet Museum collections.<\/p>\n<p>As for the French Football Federation,\u00a0it gifted a personalised Type XX to each winner of the 1998 World Cup.<\/p>\n<p><strong>TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>The military heritage<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 deliv- ered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the A\u00e9ronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black dial has been modernised while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o\u2019clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o\u2019clock, and a date window has been\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">added between 4 and 5 o\u2019clock.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-en\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">graved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was that\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">of the models delivered to military air forces\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">in the past. The crown reflecting the original\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>pear shape is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o\u2019clock pusher serves to activate the chro- nograph, the one at 4 o\u2019clock for the \u201cflyback\u201d function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.<\/p>\n<p><strong>TYPE\u00a0<\/strong><strong>XX\u00a0CHRONOGRAPHE 2067<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>The line of civilian versions<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>This second timepiece with its adventurous look is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects.<\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o\u2019clock, the 12- hour totalizer at 6 o\u2019clock and running seconds at 9 o\u2019clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer\u00a0<\/span>is sized differently to make the dial\u00a0both more dynamic and more legible.<\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">The Arabic numerals, the hands and\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">the triangle on the bezel are coated\u00a0<\/span><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">with\u00a0\u00a0 an\u00a0\u00a0 ivory-coloured\u00a0 \u00a0luminescent\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">treatment. The date window appears\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">between 4 and 5 o\u2019clock.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\"><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\"><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\"><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o\u2019clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o\u2019clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous \u201cflyback\u201d principle.<\/p>\n<p>These two eagerly awaited new additions to the current collection are delivered in a havana-coloured leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing. Enabling owners to vary the look according to their personal wishes, the new chronograph is fitted with a calfskin strap along with an additional black NATO strap contained in its case. The rapid interchange system (RIS) of the bracelets has been designed to enable the easy, independent and tool-free removal of the leather strap.<\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">The user can indeed remove both\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">halves of the strap simply by pressing\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">the under-lug correctors to fit another\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">leather strap, simply position the slot\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">at the upper end of the strap on a\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">level with the watch lugs, at a 45 to\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">60-degree\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0angle.\u00a0\u00a0 \u00a0An\u00a0 \u00a0interlocking\u00a0<span lang=\"en-us\" xml:lang=\"en-us\">system is enough to secure it in place.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>It takes only a few seconds to switch from a calf leather strap to another\u00a0 leather variant, while the black NATO strap slips between the two bars while passing under the case.<\/p>\n<p><strong>ACCURACY\u00a0AND\u00a0STURDINESS<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Arrival of the new Calibre 728<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>After four years of\u00a0\u00a0 development\u00a0\u00a0 at the Manufacture\u00a0\u00a0 Breguet,\u00a0\u00a0 the\u00a0\u00a0 brand is delighted to present the new self- winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version and Calibre 7281 for the military version. Combining robustness and innovation, this movement and its variant are protected by several patents.<\/p>\n<p>It incorporates all the designs of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Alongside these elements, it also benefits from the latest\u00a0technical\u00a0 \u00a0innovations\u00a0 \u00a0in\u00a0 \u00a0the\u00a0 \u00a0field\u00a0 \u00a0of\u00a0chronometry (precision timing).<\/p>\n<p>The balance-spring, the escape-wheel\u00a0and the pallet-lever horns are made of\u00a0silicon. In addition to being resistant to\u00a0corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Moreover, this self-winding chronograph has a 60-hour power reserve.<\/p>\n<p>Both models are equipped with a \u201cflyback\u201d. This function is a precious asset for pilots, replacing the three operations previously required with just one. Different times and directions that require evaluation are easily handled using the \u201cflyback\u201d function.<\/p>\n<p>These innovative activation and zero- resetting systems have been designed for crisp and accurate use. Whatever function is performed, the\u00a0\u00a0 pressure felt on the pushers will be even and balanced. The same applies to the vertical clutch mechanism, which has been adopted for the accuracy of its activation. The chronograph hand thus starts instantly without any initial jerks. To make the movement robust and guarantee its precision even in case of potential impacts, a cross-through bridge was chosen to secure the balance in place.<\/p>\n<p>Sized in such a way as to occupy a maximum of the available space within the movement, the barrel \u2013 the energy source \u2013 is equipped with a spring whose high-energy-density material enables a longer power reserve.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, this new movement\u2019s other asset lies in its aesthetics, as significant work has been done on its decoration. In addition to the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, circular-graining and other\u00a0visible decorations on the components, Breguet has treated the column wheel to a black DLC treatment that heightens visual\u00a0 contrast while improving tribological\u00a0 \u00a0properties. The sapphire crystal caseback provides a chance to admire the details of the movement, including its blackened oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.<\/p>\n<p><\/p>","description_short":"","quantity":0,"minimal_quantity":"0","available_now":"","available_later":"","price":15916.666667,"specificPrice":false,"additional_shipping_cost":"0.00","wholesale_price":"0.000000","on_sale":"0","online_only":"0","unity":"","unit_price":0,"unit_price_ratio":"0.000000","ecotax":"0.000000","reference":"2057ST\/92\/3WU ","supplier_reference":"","location":"","width":"0.000000","height":"0.000000","depth":"0.000000","weight":"0.000000","ean13":"","upc":"","link_rewrite":"type-20-chronographe-2057","meta_description":"BREGUET TYPE XX Press Kit - English June 2023 TYPE XX\u00a0A\u00a0STRONG\u00a0COMEBACK This collection enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years has accompanied the histor...","meta_keywords":"","meta_title":"Watch Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057 | Type XX 2057ST\/92\/3WU   Steel - Black Dial - Strap Calfskin Leather","quantity_discount":"0","customizable":"0","new":false,"uploadable_files":"0","text_fields":"0","active":"1","redirect_type":"404","id_product_redirected":"0","available_for_order":"0","available_date":"0000-00-00","condition":"new","show_price":"1","indexed":"1","visibility":"both","date_add":"2023-06-16 11:13:10","date_upd":"2023-06-16 15:15:48","tags":false,"base_price":"15916.666667","id_tax_rules_group":"1","id_color_default":0,"advanced_stock_management":"0","out_of_stock":2,"depends_on_stock":false,"isFullyLoaded":true,"cache_is_pack":"0","cache_has_attachments":"0","is_virtual":"0","id_pack_product_attribute":null,"cache_default_attribute":"0","category":"type-xx","pack_stock_type":"0","id":8455,"id_shop_list":null,"force_id":false,"customization_required":false}

{"Compl\u00e9ment":"Steel - Black Dial - Strap Calfskin Leather","Statut de vente":"En vente depuis","Date":"June 2023","Sexe":"Homme","Diam\u00e8tre":"41","Epaisseur":"14.1 ","Types":"Self-winding","Styles":"Vintage","Calibre_autre":"7281","Calibre distinction_autre":"Balance-spring flat in silicon,\r\nEscapement inverted straight-line lever with silicon horns","Complication":"Small Seconds, Date, 30-Minute Counter, Flyback Chronograph, Chronograph","Mati\u00e8re du bo\u00eetier":"Steel","Etanch\u00e9it\u00e9":"100 meters","Forme":"Round","Couleur du cadran":"Black","Mati\u00e8re du bracelet":"Leather","Plus de caract\u00e9ristiques":"<br\/>\r\nMovement<br\/>\r\nMovement: self-winding<br\/>\r\nCalibre: 7281<br\/>\r\nFrequency: 5 Hz<br\/>\r\nPower reserve: 60 hours<br\/>\r\nComponents: 339<br\/>\r\n<br\/>\r\nCase<br\/>\r\nSteel<br\/>\r\n<br\/>\r\nDail<br\/>\r\nBlack<br\/>\r\n<br\/>\r\nStrap  \/ Buckles<br\/>\r\nSet of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, 1 in NATO fabric\r\n\r\n"}

Type 20 Chronographe 2057

Reference: 2057ST/92/3WU

• OVERVIEW
• TECHNICAL SHEET

View larger

Previous

• 
• 
• 

Next

Display all pictures

Brand  :	Breguet
Collection  :	Type XX
Model  :	Type 20 Chronographe 2057
Reference  :	2057ST/92/3WU
Complement :	Steel - Black Dial - Strap Calfskin Leather
On sale :	June 2023

19 100 €Recorded list price in FranceI WANT ITADD TO CART

Quantity

The minimum purchase order quantity for the product is 0

Tweet Share

Contact us about this product

REQUEST A PRICE

Price request for Type 20 Chronographe 2057Ref. 2057ST/92/3WU

Your Name ^* :

Your E-mail ^* :

Confirm your E-mail ^* :

Your request has been sent to the seller

CLOSE

Contact us about this product

YOU WANT IT ? WE SEARCH IT !

This fonction is reserved for exclusive members of MyWatchSite.

There is nothing easier than becoming a member!

SIGN IN REGISTER

GO TO Breguet WATCHES FOR WOMEN

• Brand  :	Breguet
  Collection  :	Type XX
  Model  :	Type 20 Chronographe 2057
  Reference  :	2057ST/92/3WU
  Complement :	Steel - Black Dial - Strap Calfskin Leather
  On sale :	June 2023
  List Price :	19 100 €
  Diameter :	41 mm
  Thickness :	14.1 mm
  Styles :	Vintage
  Types :	Self-winding
  Calibre :	7281
  Calibre distinction :	Balance-spring flat in silicon Escapement inverted straight-line lever with silicon horns
  Complication :	Small Seconds Date 30-Minute Counter Flyback Chronograph Chronograph
  Case material :	Steel
  Shape :	Round
  Water-resistance :	100 meters
  Dial color :	Black
  Strap material :	Leather
  + More characteristics :	Movement Movement: self-winding Calibre: 7281 Frequency: 5 Hz Power reserve: 60 hours Components: 339 Case Steel Dail Black Strap / Buckles Set of two interchangeable straps, 1 in calfskin leather, 1 in NATO fabric

DESCRIPTION

• BREGUET TYPE XX

  Press Kit - English June 2023

  TYPE XX A STRONG COMEBACK

  This collection enjoying iconic status for nearly 70 years has accompanied the history of aviation – whether on pilots’ wrists as a precision instrument or on those of ordinary amateur enthusiasts fascinated by its legendary qualities. The Manufacture Breguet proudly unveils a redesigned line that is innovative, highly contemporary and brimming with nods to history.       

  The year 2023 brings a new Type XX, new momentum, a new generation and an all-new calibre. Four years of preparation preceded the   arrival   of the new generation of iconic Type XX watches, this time, issued in two versions to meet all expectations: one military- inspired and the other drawing on the finest civilian models. Taking cues from the emblematic first-generation models, Breguet has instilled a contemporary, dynamic and technological spirit into these watches. The Type XX saga clearly shows no sign of petering out!

  A RETURN TO ROOTS

  It was entirely natural for Breguet to draw on its inexhaustible heritage in creating the new Type XX. Putting things into context, one may recall that in the early 1950s, Breguet was able to meet the requirements of air forces wishing to equip themselves with a robust wrist chronograph featuring certain distinctive characteristics.

  A prestigious and widely recognised firm keen to be part of humankind’s great adventures, Breguet placed itself at the service of airborne navigation in the 20th century, just as it had done for maritime navigation in the 19th century. A large number of pilots acquired Breguet watches, including Alberto Santos-Dumont in 1910, American pilots stationed in France in 1918, the Louis Breguet aviation company, Japanese pilots visiting France in the 1920s, and many others...

  TIME AND AIRBORNE NAVIGATION

  For pilots, and more generally for air- crew members, keeping track of time on board an aircraft – meaning preserving temporal references within an environ- ment characterised by intense activity and stress – is a vital necessity. Opera- tions such as measuring flight time or intermediate flight times, monitoring fuel consumption, taking bearings and carry- ing out manoeuvres all required instru- ments that watchmakers would render both more accurate and convenient to handle over the years: on-board chrono- graphs and soon thereafter chronograph wristwatches.

  A study of the company archives reveals that numerous “special” products – i.e. suited to the particular constraints of the aeronautical environment – were introduced from the 1930s onwards. 19-line aerodrome chronometers in an antimagnetic silver case, split-second chronographs, small 24-line on-board chronometers with a heat-insulated case, a thermostat and lighting, siderometers... All these highly technical timepieces were delivered both to military aviation and to the recently created French na- tional airline, Air France.

  Delivery of watchmaking instruments for aircraft instrument panels increased from the early 1950s onwards and for 30 years was one of Breguet’s recognised special- ities. The most widespread models were the Type 11, 11/1 and 12, which were sold to a dozen countries and featured on the instrument panels of numerous aircraft, notably the unforgettable, supersonic  Concorde.

  In the 1930s, the company was already producing more and more wristwatches with a chronograph function and the post-war period confirmed the trend. The fashion for wrist worn chronographs was launched and has continued un- abated ever since.

  For pilots, time is so precious when aboard aircraft that it is necessary, for safety reasons, to establish a  princi- ple of redundancy. At the time, that meant backing  up  the  chronograph on the instrument panel with another chronograph – and not just any mod- el – strapped to the pilot’s wrist. If one became unusable, the other would take over. This was the whole point of the watchmaking instruments in which Breg- uet was to become a specialist, notably with the legendary Type XX.

  JOURNEY OF AN ICON ANDITS LANDMARKS

  It is impossible to describe the history of a model as emblematic as the Type XX in just few lines. We will therefore confine ourselves to a brief overview of the successive milestone models featured in the company’s catalogue across almost 70 years.

  According to the archives, things began in the early 1950s when the company, already a specialist in products dedicat- ed to the aviation industry, learned that the French Air Force was looking to equip its pilots with a chronograph wristwatch meeting the following technical specifi- cations: a black dial with luminescent nu- merals, luminescent hands, a high-qual- ity movement resistant to changes in pressure and acceleration, a rotating be- zel and of course a “flyback” function, to mention but the most important. It was the Air Ministry that named the future product “Type XX”.

  Several companies competed and won contracts, which meant that several brands would produce Type XXs; on the other hand, the brands selected for public contracts could also sell the same product to private customers. This led to the production of military Type XXs and civilian Type XXs.

  For Breguet, things went as follows: the prototypes submitted by the company in 1952 were approved in 1953 by the Ser- vice Technique Aéronautique. In 1954, the French Air Force placed an order for 1,100 military Type 20s, which were de- livered between 1955 and 1959. They feature a 30-minute totalizer and their dial is unsigned, while the back bears the official inscriptions BREGUET - TYPE 20 - 5101/54.

  Another prestigious customer, the Centre d’Essais en Vol (CEV) for elite French test pilots ordered 80 timepieces that were delivered in 1956 and 1957. They have a 15-minute totalizer and 50 of them fea- ture a 12-hour totalizer at 6 o’clock; while the letters CEV followed by a number from 1 to 80 are engraved on the back.

  In 1958, the French Navy ordered 500 timepieces for the pilots and sailors of its airborne wing, the Aéronautique Navale. Delivered in full on 13 January 1960, these Type XX military timepiec- es are significantly different from those of the Air Force: their 15-minute totalizer is housed in a circle with an enlarged di- ameter; their dial is signed and their back bears the inscription BREGUET - MA- RINE NATIONALE - AERONAUTIQUE NAVALE - N° X / 500.

  The reputation of the Type XX quickly spread beyond the military sphere, lead- ing to a situation where the world of civil aviation and chronograph enthusiasts were also keen to acquire a Type XX from Breguet. Even though the Valjoux 14-line movement was replaced in 1963 by a modernized 13-line movement, and despite certain perceptible variations in terms of dial, the hands or the bezel, the Type XX underwent barely any aesthet- ic modifications until 1970. More than 2000 “civilian” Type XX models were sold.

  The second-generation Type XX arrived in 1971 and is recognisable by its enlarged polished steel case, thick lugs and black bezel. Available with or without a 12-hour totalizer, it continued to feature a 15-minute counter. Nearly 800 of these timepieces were sold, most of them to civilians; while on the military side, only 50 pieces were delivered to the Royal Moroccan Air Force. Orders were also placed by Aérospatiale (later Airbus Industries) and purchased by the Presidency of the French Republic as official gifts. The last ones were sold in 1986, spelling the (provisional) end of more than 30 years of a rich history.

  After a barely ten-year absence, Type XX enjoyed a revival in 1995 with the appearance of the third generation in the form of Reference 3800 “Aéronavale” (without date) and subsequently Reference 3820 “Transatlantique” (with date). The new Type XX picks up the traditional aviation characteristics: black dial, rotating bezel, “flyback” function, now backed by the convenience of a self-winding movement. Aesthetically, it features a fluted caseband, a somewhat anachronistic legacy of the “historical Breguet” style.

  It proved successful and led to numerous interpretations, with a variety of precious metals and dial colour changes over the years. The line was enriched by an alarm watch(Reference 3860) and a Type XX for ladies (Reference 4820), before the 2004 arrival of the Type XXI (Reference 3810) and the 2010 introduction   of the impressive Type XXII (Reference 3880) incorporating high-frequency technology and silicon. Type XXI in turn welcomed many variations and some limited series, right the way through to the models unveiled in recent years (References 3817 and 3815).

  BREGUET AVIATION

  Fascinated by the conquest of the air, Louis Charles – grandson of Louis Clément Breguet, whose own grandfather was Abraham-Louis Breguet – got involved in the aeronautical adventure in the early 20th century. He began by building gyroplanes (the forerunner of the helicopter) before creating the Louis Breguet aviation workshops in 1911. Several of his aircraft enjoyed international attention. The Breguet family had a very good relationship with the Brown family that had acquired the watchmaking company in 1870. It was therefore only natural that aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet should turn to the Browns to discuss the watchmaking needs of the aeronautical world. Louis Breguet thus purchased watches from the Breguet watchmaking company to equip his aircraft and pilots.

  In 1966, Marcel Dassault bought up the company founded by Louis Breguet and merged it with his own in 1971 under the name Avions Marcel Dassault-Breguet Aviation. The firm was renamed Dassault Aviation in 1990.

  LEGENDARY CLIENTS

  With orders from the French Air Force, followed by the Centre d’Essais en Vol, the Aéronautique Navale and numerous civilian pilots, the entire aviation elite took to the skies with the famous Type XX.

  We know from the company’s archives that one of the first Type XXs was given by aircraft manufacturer Louis Breguet to the great aviator Jacqueline Auriol, a test pilot and internationally renowned figure in women’s aviation.

  Many aeronautical organisations also regularly purchased Type XX watches. The Royal Moroccan Air Force was also a customer of the second-generation Type XX in the 1970s, as were Aérospatiale (later Airbus Industries), the French Pres- idency, ENAC (École Nationale de l’Avia- tion Civile), the Gendarmerie Nationale, the Heli-Union helicopter company, the Office Général de l’Air (OGA) and many others...

  The fact that Type XX also appealed to the sports world is a not widely-known reality. Motor-racing organisations including the Monte Carlo Rally rewarded winners with Type XX watches. Famous drivers such as Fernand Masoero, Jack Brabham and Pierre Alexandre had a Type XX on their wrists. The latter’s watch is now part of the Breguet Museum collections.

  As for the French Football Federation, it gifted a personalised Type XX to each winner of the 1998 World Cup.

  TYPE 20 CHRONOGRAPHE 2057

  The military heritage

  This timepiece is inspired by the 1100 deliv- ered to the French Air Force between 1955 and 1959, whose name appeared as Type 20 in Arabic numerals, unlike all the others, including those of the Aéronautique Navale, whose name was written Type XX in Roman numerals. Its black dial has been modernised while remaining faithful to the Type 20 identity.

  The Arabic numerals and the triangle on the bezel are luminescent and feature a mint green shade, as do all the hands. The 30-minute totalizer located at 3 o’clock is now larger than the 60-second totalizer displayed at 9 o’clock, and a date window has been added between 4 and 5 o’clock.

  The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a non-en graved fluted bidirectional bezel, as was that of the models delivered to military air forces in the past. The crown reflecting the original pear shape is adjustable in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher serves to activate the chro- nograph, the one at 4 o’clock for the “flyback” function. The former is used to start and stop the watch, while the latter serves to reset the chronograph and the minute totalizer.

  TYPE XX CHRONOGRAPHE 2067

  The line of civilian versions

  This second timepiece with its adventurous look is a direct descendant of the finest civilian Type XX from the 1950s and 1960s, notably a model made in 1957 and bearing the individual number 2988. While its dial is black as the 2057, it differs in several respects.

  First of all, its display: the 15-minute totalizer is located at 3 o’clock, the 12- hour totalizer at 6 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Just as in the military-inspired version, the totalizer is sized differently to make the dial both more dynamic and more legible.

  The Arabic numerals, the hands and the triangle on the bezel are coated with   an   ivory-coloured   luminescent treatment. The date window appears between 4 and 5 o’clock.

  The 42 mm steel case is fitted with a fluted bidirectional graduated bezel. Its classic straight crown enables setting in three positions: 1) neutral, 2) date correction, 3) time setting. The 2 o’clock pusher starts and stops the chronograph functions, while the one at 4 o’clock resets and restarts the chronograph immediately, based on the famous “flyback” principle.

  These two eagerly awaited new additions to the current collection are delivered in a havana-coloured leather presentation box reminiscent of an aircraft wing. Enabling owners to vary the look according to their personal wishes, the new chronograph is fitted with a calfskin strap along with an additional black NATO strap contained in its case. The rapid interchange system (RIS) of the bracelets has been designed to enable the easy, independent and tool-free removal of the leather strap.

  The user can indeed remove both halves of the strap simply by pressing the under-lug correctors to fit another leather strap, simply position the slot at the upper end of the strap on a level with the watch lugs, at a 45 to 60-degree    angle.    An   interlocking system is enough to secure it in place. It takes only a few seconds to switch from a calf leather strap to another  leather variant, while the black NATO strap slips between the two bars while passing under the case.

  ACCURACY AND STURDINESS

  Arrival of the new Calibre 728

  After four years of   development   at the Manufacture   Breguet,   the   brand is delighted to present the new self- winding Calibre 728 for the civilian version and Calibre 7281 for the military version. Combining robustness and innovation, this movement and its variant are protected by several patents.

  It incorporates all the designs of a modern chronograph such as a column wheel, vertical clutch, 5 Hz frequency as well as an innovative zero-resetting activation system. Alongside these elements, it also benefits from the latest technical   innovations   in   the   field   of chronometry (precision timing).

  The balance-spring, the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever horns are made of silicon. In addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, silicon is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the accuracy of the timepiece. Moreover, this self-winding chronograph has a 60-hour power reserve.

  Both models are equipped with a “flyback”. This function is a precious asset for pilots, replacing the three operations previously required with just one. Different times and directions that require evaluation are easily handled using the “flyback” function.

  These innovative activation and zero- resetting systems have been designed for crisp and accurate use. Whatever function is performed, the   pressure felt on the pushers will be even and balanced. The same applies to the vertical clutch mechanism, which has been adopted for the accuracy of its activation. The chronograph hand thus starts instantly without any initial jerks. To make the movement robust and guarantee its precision even in case of potential impacts, a cross-through bridge was chosen to secure the balance in place.

  Sized in such a way as to occupy a maximum of the available space within the movement, the barrel – the energy source – is equipped with a spring whose high-energy-density material enables a longer power reserve.

  Finally, this new movement’s other asset lies in its aesthetics, as significant work has been done on its decoration. In addition to the sunburst pattern, snailing, bevelling, circular-graining and other visible decorations on the components, Breguet has treated the column wheel to a black DLC treatment that heightens visual  contrast while improving tribological   properties. The sapphire crystal caseback provides a chance to admire the details of the movement, including its blackened oscillating weight shaped like an aircraft wing and engraved with the Breguet logo.