Calatrava Haute Joaillerie

Haute Joaillerie Calatrava Ref. 4899/900

Watchmaking and gemsetting artistry perfectly harmonized

The ladies' Ref. 4899 Haute Joaillerie wristwatch is an impressive manifestation of Patek Philippe's ability to meld gemsetting expertise and watchmaking artistry. It is a feminine gem in white gold, mother of pearl, flawless rare white Top Wesselton diamonds, and rose sapphires. It combines finesse with the graceful elegance of the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement that celebrates its 40th anniversary this year.

In 1977, when Patek Philippe launched its ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 with a height of merely 2.53 mm, the manufacture had men's wristwatches in mind because with its diameter of 27.5 mm, it was too large for the era's ladies' watches. But times have changed, and women very much appreciate larger timepieces nowadays, as long as they have slender, elegant looks. This format is an excellent match for the new Ref. 4899/900, offering ample space for a precious haute joaillerie setting on the case and the large mother-of-pearl dial that showcases the abundant talents of the jeweler and the engraver.

Artisanal gemsetting and engraving

The gently rounded silhouette of the white-gold case sets an ideal stage for the precious stone settings with several staggered rows composed of 149 flawless Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds that alternate with 182 brilliant-cut rose sapphires with varying color intensities along the periphery. Their warm romantic glow amid the fire of diamonds seduces the hearts of women. The mother-of-pearl dial also benefits from the sparkling precious stones. Like the sand in an hourglass, the gems of different sizes appear to be randomly set in the lower half of the dial – 98 rare white diamonds at the top, 89 sapphires with varying rose hues at the bottom. This treasure is guarded by feathers in varying shades of rose, manually engraved in the upper half of the naturally tinted mother-of-pearl dial. The ensemble, highly fascinating, irresistible and very feminine, includes leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in 18K white gold. They, too, are decorated with filigreed, manually executed engravings. And the jeweler's art also comes to the fore in the crown (36 Top Wesselton diamonds plus a rose sapphire cabochon) and the white-gold clasp (36 diamonds and 82 rose sapphires). All in all, 702 precious stones with an aggregate weight of 4.35 ct. vie for attention on the Ref. 4899. Needless to say, all gems are mechanically set by master jewelers as specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. The alligator strap with large square scales is shiny rose to match the sapphires, rounding out the feminine personality of this watch.

The case back side of the new Ref. 4899 Haute Joaillerie wristwatch reveals yet another very precious asset: the sapphire-crystal back showcases the ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 movement which makes such a svelte timepiece possible in the first place. In the interest of a thin silhouette, the 22K gold rotor is completely integrated in the movement. It displays the same Geneva striping as the bridges. Their elegant contours are highlighted by the polished, chamfered edges. The red rubies and gold-filled engravings gleam brightly, creating attractive contrasts. A closer look exposes the manually applied perlage on the plate and the gentle golden hue of the brass wheels as well as the Gyromax® balance; it oscillates very precisely, assuring a daily rate tolerance of -3 to +2 seconds. Because women love to be punctual.