Ronde Louis Cartier Filigrane

SIHH 2015

A WORK OF ART AND GOLD LACE

RONDE LOUIS CARTIER FILIGREE WATCH

Created in the new Maison des Métiers d’Art on site at La Chaux-de-Fonds, the Ronde Louis Cartier Filigree watch reinvents the centuries-old technique of filigree using a figurative, precious approach. A creative heritage method that is testament to Cartier’s mission to perpetuate forgotten crafts and expertise such as granulation in 2013.

The ancient art of filigree appeared in Egypt in earliest antiquity. Its invention is attributed to the Sumerians in around 3000 B.C. before being developed in INdia, Tibet, Greece and Iran and much later in Portugal where it reached a new level of excellence.

As diaphanous as lace, filigree is a technique of goldsmithing taht uses gold or silver wires soldered together in order to create an openwork grid with a desired motif.

Fo Cartier, the challenge consisted not only in adapting it to the restrained dimensions of a watch case but also elevating this craft by opting for a very precious selection of jewellery materials such as gold, platinum and diamonds.

The craftsmen of the Maison des Métiers d'Art worked with beaten gold and platinum micro-wires that required specific equipment specially created on site. Twisted, rolled, curled and cut into little rings, these wires were assembled using the "openwork" filigree etchnique that allows the elements to be attached on the sides but not to the base.

Over a month of work was required to create this lacework watch that is home to a pair of panthers whose black-lacquer-spotted coats are literally woven from fine filigree elements of gold and platinum set with diamonds.

Sovereigns draped in brocade, the two panthers look at each other with thier cut-to-measure emerald eyes. This delicate feline tête-à-tête is set against the background of a starry sky and surround by a middle pavé-set with diamonds, wich is partly covered by the motif.

This exceptional work of art brings together numerous kinds of craftsmanship, from gemstone-setting to goldsmithing, from jewellery-making to watchmaking, from engraving to lacquering. A thousand actions that give Cartier's emblematic animal a rare preciousness with a balance, grace and absolute refinement  that are as ethereal as the finest lace.