Baignoire Allongée

J E W E L L E RY WAT C H E S

Using the emblematic shapes of the Maison’s watchmaking repertoire — the rectangle of the Tank and the oval of the Baignoire — Cartier shakes up the codes and brings together all that is precious and rare to create watches that celebrate the Maison’s expertise. Watchmaking and jewellery become one in a blend of expertise and formal exploration.

SHARP AND ROUND

Created in 1917, the Tank watch is an emblematic creation of modern design. Its rectangular dial, aligned with the strap, has become a signature. It is this watchmaking icon that Cartier has chosen to explore through the prism of geometry and contrasts — a signature marker of style for the Maison that is based on shapes and patterns, working from effects of symmetry or asymmetry and powerful chromatic contrasts. The imprint of the original watch is still present on this new Tank: two parallel brancards, a rectangular case and the bracelet that fits seamlessly integrated into the case. However, on this occasion, this distinctive attachment of the Tank watch secures a f lexible bracelet, entirely composed of mobile cylinders articulated by links.

Promising flexibility and comfort, it invites touch and movement. The different aesthetics of this new creation share a common characteristic: their bracelet — composed of cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral — is finished with a cabochon studded with a gold nail and a reverse- set stone. This is Cartier’s way of paying tribute to the piqué beads used by Jeanne Toussaint, a major figure in the history of the Maison and Cartier’s creative director from 1933. A Cartier signature.

VARIATIONS ON GOLD

An elegant and classic accord for a watch with a black onyx dial, illuminated with a diamond on the index. The brancards, set with diamonds of different sizes, form the structure of this creation and extend to join the precious bracelet created from enamel and onyx cylinders, the ends of which are illuminated by a gold nail set with a diamond.

CHROMATIC  EXPLORATION  IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF JEANNE TOUSSAINT

For this new Tank watch, Cartier has come up with two even more precious variations that combine the beauty of the design with the brilliance of coloured stones to revive a colour palette borrowed from Jeanne Toussaint.

Black, green, red: three colours cherished by Cartier for a white gold watch. An interplay of contrasts and pairings: black, like the onyx of the cylinders, the edge and the dial, contrasting with the acid green of the chrysoprase beads and the red of the rubies set along the vertical brancards and the nails at the end of the chrysoprase cabochons.

Coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds: this combination of stones is a continuation of Cartier’s exploration of materials, which has become the Maison’s signature. An upbeat and joyful combination for this precious watch featuring a dial paved with snow-set diamonds.

On the rolls, the chrysoprase contrasts with the organic vibrancy of the coral studded beads and the softness of the amethysts set on either side of the chrysoprase.

Vertical and horizontal brancards, edges and bracelets: the diamonds illuminate the ensemble with the brilliance of different sizes.

Created in the 1960 s in Sw inging London, the Baignoire Allongée watch has never lost its extravagance — quite the contrary. This watch was made singular by the size of its dial and the curves of its case.

Cartier explores all possibilities and, for the first time, brings the beauty of its craftsmanship to the realm of its signature dial. This choice is based on a strong principle at Cartier: technique dedicated to design. This vision gives the designer the freedom to experiment with creativity and dare to combine bold shapes with unexpected combinations of colours and materials. To make this dream a reality and meet these new challenges, the artisans from the Maison des Métiers d’Art design appropriate solutions based on the wealth of their expertise.

An imperceptible mastery, and a constant emphasis on precious details.

GEOMETRY AND CONTRASTS

The new Baignoire Allongée was developed with the intention of revisiting the aesthetics of a watch with character through the prism of geometry and contrasts — one of the Maison’s markers of style.

By adapting this creative principle to the constraints of the watch design (large dial, curved shape), the task becomes even more difficult, as the case designed in two colours presents a technical challenge. The solution is a case composed of two parts, one in yellow gold and the other in white gold. To combine them, the watchmakers used a micro-welding tool. The margin between the two golds is subtly concealed by a line of lacquer.

The whole dial is divided into sections of different sizes, the gold of which is either worked or covered with black lacquer or enamel. The white and yellow gold sections are polished or adorned with a sunray motif made by hand with the use of a spike — a meticulous and time- consuming process that takes four hours per dial. Some sections are then coated with a translucent lacquer illuminated with suspended mica flakes. For the black lacquered or enamelled parts, the curve of the dial poses a technical challenge during installation in terms of achieving a smooth surface with an intense colour. This contrasts with the diamond- lit case, the setting of which follows the curve of the piece.

From machining to enamel, lacquering to jewellery making, nine different areas of expertise are involved in the creation of each piece. In total, it took more than 24 months to create this watch.

A creation featuring an abstract motif that sublimates the art of craftsmanship through a new exploration of materials, colours and geometry, this watch is available in a limited series of 50 pieces.

MINIATURE MARQUETRY FOR AN OVERSIZED BAIGNOIRE

Cartier introduces the art of marquetry to the heart of the dial on the Baignoire Allongée watch. A rare craft, adapted to watchmaking, which gives rise to a watch with an abstract motif that celebrates colour.

From the outset, the Baignoire’s bezel is surprising, with its diamond-set material, grey spinels and blue tourmalines in an inverted pavilion setting. There exists a strong play of contrasts between the aesthetics of the watch, with its curves and roundness, the size of its dial, and the sensual nature of the gemstones. The complexity of the inverted pavilion setting increases the usual manufacturing time by 20%.

On the dial, mother-of-pearl, turquoise, onyx and white gold create an abstract composition, playing with both shiny and matte colours. Carefully selected for a harmony of colours, the fine materials are then laser-cut into miniature elements to be assembled like pieces of a puzzle. All of these meticulous steps are carried out with a binocular microscope. Performing this marquetry work on a curved surface is a challenge for the artisans and each dial requires 25 hours of work.

Four different types of savoir-faire are involved in the creation of this watch: the jeweller, the marquetry craftsman, the setter and the watchmaker. This watch is available in a limited series of 50 pieces.

The Baignoire watch is part of the research initiated by Louis Cartier on watchmaking shapes from the very beginning of the 20th century. Following the Santos de Cartier with its square case in 1904 and the Tonneau in 1906, it was in 1912 that the first oval watch appeared in the company’s repertoire. It would go on to evolve over the following decades, and it was not until 1973 that a watch was named “Baignoire”, meaning “bathtub”, in reference to the refined shape of an everyday household object. Cartier’s own vision casts light on beauty in all its guises. Always true to itself, the Baignoire has known multiple transformations since its creation. Like endless possibilities to which Cartier gives form, it follows a pattern of continuity while resembling only itself each time.

A watch that is constantly reinventing itself, as proven by this new collection of evening watches that gives Cartier the opportunity to explore different forms. Two new versions and two variations in scale underline this jewelled Baignoire that celebrates and sublimates the distinctive diamond line.

A double or triple line that enhances the curves of the watch and slips onto the wrist. Cartier envisions it entirely in diamonds or paired with sapphires, emeralds, chrysoprase or blue tourmalines. On a delicately arched structure, the snow-set dial features a paving in which the metal appears to be completely absent: the stones of varying cuts create a vibrant and shifting appearance. This radiant wave continues at the wrist, underpinned by a sequence of different sized stones. Like an explosion of coloured lights, it gives the watch spontaneity and flamboyance.