Master Grande Ultra Thin

Master Ultra Thin
the grandest form of horological minimalism

Ultra-thin watches are not only one of the most longstanding historical specialities of the Manufacture, but indeed gave rise to the joining of the two names Jaeger and LeCoultre. It was in 1903 that Jacques-David LeCoultre rose to the challenge set to Swiss watch manufacturers by Edmond Jaeger: that of creating the “world’s thinnest movements”. Their encounter gave rise in 1907 to LeCoultre Calibre 145 – a Lépine 17-ligne pocket-watch – the thinnest in the world at just 1.38 mm thick and still  the record-holder in its category. It also inspired the creation of one of the most prodigious collections of ultra-thin calibres ever. Today, Jaeger-LeCoultre is perpetuating this tradition with two watches extolling the virtues of absolute finesse. With its ultra-thin 1.85 mm calibre and its 38 mm case featuring pure, sleek lines, the Master Ultra Thin 38 is the epitome of elegant understatement. Meanwhile, in its 40 mm case, the Master Grande Ultra Thin embodies horological refinement – from the subtle design of its lugs to the clarity of its dial featuring a small seconds subdial.

Manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 849 and automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 896

One of Edmond Jaeger’s demands was to create movements that were ultra-thin while detracting nothing from their quality and reliability. The movements driving the new Master Ultra Thin models are entirely in harmony with this tradition.

At the heart of the Master Ultra Thin 38 beats manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 849, a movement that has already achieved legendary status among devotees of fine watchmaking due to the exceptional qualities it has consistently displayed since 1994: peerless accuracy and reliability, 123 parts and a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour, all housed within a mere 1.85 mm. It is indeed one of the thinnest movements on the market today. Embodying a major horological accomplishment, its slender structure calls for exceptional machining precision. In order to limit the overall thickness, it is equipped with a bridge-free barrel and an extremely small escapement. Its fine adjustment and assembly therefore represent particularly delicate tasks that are entrusted to the Watchmaking Specialities workshops within the Manufacture.

For the Master Grande Ultra Thin, 40 mm model, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 896 with small seconds belongs to the 899 generation of new movements. Made up of 242 parts, it measures no more than 3.98 mm thick. It comprises the signature features of the brand’s new automatic calibres: the variable-inertia balance ensuring the constancy of the rate and enhanced sturdiness; ceramic ball-bearing mechanisms requiring no lubrication or maintenance; and a high frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The embodiment of finesse

From an aesthetic standpoint, the Master Ultra Thin models enshrine absolute purity, from the ultra-classical dial to the case finely sculpted in steel or pink gold.

The silver-coloured dials feature a refined sunburst motif perfectly suited to their slightly cambered shape. Dauphine-style hands glide gracefully over the applied gold dagger-shaped numerals and hour-markers. The minute circle is powdered, silver-coloured or gilded, while the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature is topped by the gilded or rhodium-plated JL anchor symbol. On the automatic model, the small seconds occupies a prominent position at 6 o’clock.

The cases exalt this aura of refinement: the flowing, streamlined profile of the lugs and the slender bezel create a magnificent setting for the movement that may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back. The Master Ultra Thin watches are indeed worthy heirs to the historical ultra-thin masterpieces of the Manufacture.

And since this incarnation of essential watchmaking must meet the high standards of quality upheld by the Manufacture on all levels, all models are water-resistant to 50 metres and have successfully met the implacable demands of the 1000 Hours test procedure. Available in steel or in pink gold, the manually-wound or automatic Master Ultra Thin watches are fitted with an alligator leather strap, complete with a steel or 18-carat pink gold folding clasp. The steel model may also be teamed with a metal bracelet.

The grand tradition of Jaeger-LeCoultre ultra-thin watches

Ultra-thin watches are not only one of the most longstanding historical specialities of the Manufacture, but indeed gave rise to the joining of the two names Jaeger and LeCoultre.

In 1903, French watchmaker Edmond Jaeger (1858-1922) was established in Paris. Since the 1890s, he had been making chronometers intended for the French Navy. With this market in the throes of a major crisis, Jaeger decided to apply his inventive mind to the field of ultra-thin watches. Given that his small workshop did not enable him to make the full range of watch components required, he challenged the Swiss manufacturers to produce the calibres he had invented. Jacques-David LeCoultre (1875-1948) took up the gauntlet, and the two men met in 1903 and signed a first agreement. Their cooperation was to give rise to one of the world’s most prodigious collections of ultra-thin movements, including LeCoultre Calibre 145 in 1907. At just 1.38 mm thick, the latter, is still the thinnest in the world in its category. It was produced for more than a century by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux. Jaeger and LeCoultre equipped it with some of their extremely thin complication movements. Created in 1910, the LeCoultre Calibre 17/18RMCCVEP was in particular endowed with chronograph and minute repeater functions, while measuring a mere 3.55 mm thick!

This tradition was pursued throughout the 20th century. In 1953, the 1.64 mm thick Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 803 inaugurated the line of ultra-thin wristwatch movements. It was followed ten years later by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 838, equipped with a shock-absorbing system (hence its slightly greater thickness of 1.85 mm), of which a direct descendant equips the current Master Ultra Thin. In parallel, Jaeger-LeCoultre distinguished itself in the domain of high-frequency ultra-thin automatic movements. Created in 1976 in the midst of the quartz crisis, Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 900 measures 3.25 mm thick, beats to the cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour and drives a date display. It heralded the line of ultra-thin automatic movements such as the current Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 896 powering the Master Ultra Thin automatic model, perpetuating the tradition while providing new technical performances.